Once considered the world’s most precious gem, natural pearls have been making a quiet comeback over the past few years. Jerome Kerr-Jarrett, Private Sales Jewellery Director America at Christie’s, says that while there is demand for them all through the year, “it’s not often that we are able to put together a room full of jewellery”. At the ongoing exhibition and private sale in Bahrain, serious fans can take their pick from pearls sourced by the London-based auction house.
The writer is at the Magnificent Pearls Exhibition (at the Four Seasons, Manama, till March 31), on invitation from the Kingdom of Bahrain’s Institute for Pearls and Gemstones (Danat) and Christie’s.
Collecting enough natural pearls to make a neck piece can take a lifetime, sometimes even generations. What’s most surprising is that this seven-strand gradient design is still in one piece. Thought to have originated from Rajasthan royalty, the clasp has enamel and kundan detailing. $8,750,000
The Habsburg Fringe Tiara might be the most famous from the German royal family, but this garland style one, studded with natural pearls, is unique. Commissioned in the early 1800s for one of the princesses’ weddings, it is an example of the early use of platinum, much before Cartier began using it in the 1890s. $2.75 million
This necklace has a long royal provenance: it belonged to two famous Josephines. The first was Napoleon’s wife. It then ended up in the hands of the Bavarian royal family — one of the princesses married into the Swedish royal family, and gifted it to her daughter, who became Queen Josephine of Sweden in 1844. While it is not clear who made the piece, it is well documented through its illustrious history since the 1800s, including a painting where the Queen is seen wearing it. $4.5 million
This ring by Indian jewellery designer Viren Bhagat follows his signature Art Deco style. Working with old Indian gemstones, the emerald and pearl have been rematched to give it a contemporary aesthetic. $520,000
Another piece by Bhagat, this pair of tear drop earrings feature a faceted top on the domed diamond tassel. This is a rare technique. $487,500
The strand of pearls originally belonged to Geraldine Rockefeller Dodge, daughter of financier William Rockefeller (practically American royalty). It has an “incredible sheen, and if you get close enough, you’ll be able to see yourself on it”, says Warren. The tassel, which features diamonds and 100 superfine ruby beads, went under the hammer at Christie’s a few decades ago, and has found its way on to this necklace. $2,062,500
