Twice a year, in January and June, Pitti Uomo becomes a playground for men’s fashion designers, buyers, editors, stylists and enthusiasts, many earning the famed Pitti peacocks tag with their sartorial nonchalance or sprezzatura. Last week was no different, and Instagram was popping (still is) with visuals of men in stripes, candy coloured double-breasted jackets and edgy accoutrements at the fairgrounds inside the Fortezza da Basso.
“Pitti Uomo is the most historical and untouched Italian tradition and on an average 180 companies are on the waiting list of this selective trade event,” begins Roney Simon who heads Pitti Immagine, the Italian fashion trade body, for the India market. This edition saw about 1,500 brands participating, and buyers from countries like Japan and Germany at the forefront. French brand Givenchy, as the highly prized ‘guest designer’, set up a surreal show at the Villa Palmieri. It saw the modern Givenchy man for Spring 2020 stalk through the 13th century house and its extensive gardens in Korean-lite parkas and Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 kicks.
The fashion exchange
Should India be a part of this semiannual menswear trade show that is Pitti Uomo? Well, Aneeth Arora of Pero is a favourite (she is currently showing at Pitti Bimbo, the international fair for kids fashion). Rajesh Pratap Singh, with his restrained Indian modernism and genius fabrication has participated in the past. In the 15 years that they have been in the country, Pitti Immagine India has taken many stakeholders that include fashion personalities and retailers, as well as the media to Pitti Uomo.
- Pitti Uomo is a key event in Italy, when fashion tourism to Florence increases by 45-50% and bookings and appointments are made well in advance. Scores of spontaneous events are planned around it and not a single room is to be found within 60 km of the venue if you haven’t booked ahead.
This time, ready-to-wear label Huemn was invited to participate in the unconventional segment. The six-year-old brand’s new collection was created in collaboration with Kashmiri artist, Syed Mujtaba Rizvi. Among their 50 denims, sweatshirts and organic shirts were finely embroidered pieces featuring Mujtaba’s artwork that took well over a month to create. “It is not easy to get in but the best platform to show menswear and offers a great connect with the right audience,” says Pranav Misra of Huemn, referring to the fact that only a small percentage of exhibitors are non-Italian brands. That said, some Indian designers say showing and buying there would be practical only if you can sell at more destinations in Europe.
“Pitti has very good shows but for our designers the fairs they go to must make commercial sense,” explains Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) president, Sunil Sethi, adding, “Very few show abroad and those that retail there often cater to the celebrities, NRIs, the wedding market. Troy Costa, with his impeccable suits, is worthy of representing India. If he uses Indian fabrics, there is scope, because as soon as you import fabrics, the cost goes up.”
Groomed for Italy
Pitti Uomo can be the bridge between the old and the new, explains Simon of Pitti Immagine India. “Pitti was the first show to launch an e-platform and is a constant meeting point for digital discussion. In a year that continues to be one of challenging algorithms, it offers a physical platform for virtual reality,” he says. With VR and augmented reality likely to change how we shop, the Made to Order concept is also becoming more accessible. Simon points out that not only is India a future market for Italian products but that Indian creativity and craftsmanship is keenly tracked, to play a bigger role at the fair. Pitti Uomo’s ‘guest nation China’ special project this year saw some of the best Chinese designer brands participate, and India could be next.
Sustainable and indigenous are the keywords, as are brands that have a global approach. Pitti Imagine India is quietly playing the role of catalyst, and Simon says the process has already begun, “of identifying good designers and labels” from India. Khadi and natural fabrics are also being given due attention. India is leading the dialogue on the Asian side, he adds, and plans are underway to educate potential Indian participants on selling a brand in Europe. “You have to be on the cutting edge on your very first outing or you are wasting your entire effort. The Italian market can be unforgiving,” he says.
