A few dozen black Angus cattle look at us with curiosity as we drive down the long pathway to Damian Robinson and Lindsay Davy’s farm. But first out of the house are four excited dogs, who are happy to be petted by the strangers who have turned up at their door. On a cold, blustery winter afternoon, we are at the couple’s property, Turalla Truffles, in Bungendore (40 km east of Canberra), to hunt for the black Perigord truffles that are currently in season.
Over the past couple of decades, Australia has been quietly building a reputation for high quality black truffles. Recent reports say that the country is on track to overtake France as the world’s second largest producer of the prized mushroom, thanks to the unideal weather conditions in Europe over the past few years. While the first farms came up in Western Australia around 1999 — and now contribute to about 85 to 90% of the country’s total production — the ones in New South Wales have been pioneers at making an experience out of their harvest season.
Robinson and his wife have been running Turalla Truffles since 2003. They were among the first to start in the region, and now have about four hectares under cultivation, producing close to 100 kg every year. During the season, which lasts from mid-June to early August — longer if the weather is cold enough — they host truffle hunts followed by lunch every weekend, apart from private bookings. They are also part of the ongoing Truffle Festival, which is in its 10th year right now.
Off to hunt
A short ride later to the truffiere, their truffle dog Frisbee riding comfortably on our laps, we are ready to go hunting. “Show the truffle, Frisbee. Find, find,” prompts Robinson, as the Jack Russell terrier runs between the hazelnut and hollyoak trees on whose roots the mushrooms grow. The trees are inoculated with the fungus in Europe, and then imported to Australia, where they are planted in winter so there is least stress on them as they adjust to the changed weather conditions. The little dog’s tail is a happy blur, his nose quivering with anticipation, till he stops and paws the ground exactly once. He has discovered one growing just under the surface, and is immediately rewarded for it with a treat.
“It’s still a bit early in the season,” says Robinson, adding that a truffle dog will only point to one if they are ready. The one we see now is still about two weeks away from being optimally ripe. “They get the smell from the wind, and can identify when they can be harvested. Right now, Frisbee is probably wondering why I am asking him to find one when it isn’t the right time yet. Or he’s distracted by the kangaroo on the other side of the field,” he laughs.
A majority of Turalla’s produce is sold in Sydney and Canberra, and a very minimal amount is exported. “There is the idea that European truffles are superior to Australian ones, although we grow the exact same thing. It’s easier to export them to Asia as that notion does not exist there. In the last few years, we’ve sent truffles all over the world, but the best market is Australia because it’s close and there’s no middle man. If I retail out of a gourmet shop in Sydney, I could charge AUD 2 per gram (₹100), as opposed to settling for a lesser amount if I am exporting,” he explains. Average prices range from AUD 1.50 to AUD 2.50 per gram, depending on the grade and quality.
Although we head back to the bright yellow kitchen at the farmhouse empty-handed, he sets about preparing a meal with an earlier harvest. There are Asian-style steamed dumplings filled with leeks, oyster mushrooms and grated truffles, tossed in a sauce made of Madeira, cream and more truffles. A wheel of brie cheese sandwiched with shaved truffles, crackers, and slices of foie gras topped with truffles are steadily devoured as we chat about their life before they moved to the farm — Robinson was a musician at the Opera House in Sydney, while Davy was a silversmith. “When the truffles aren’t in season, we are cattle farmers. I still compose music, including for the ongoing Vivid Festival in Sydney. And once a year, I go heli-skiing in Canada. That’s my one indulgence,” he says.
- Truffle Festival Canberra Region: Begins with the Blessing of the Truffle Dogs — where you can meet the talented pooches from around the region, join in the blessing to ensure a safe and prosperous season, see the dogs at work and join in a live hunt and enjoy a country-style lunch. On June 17 at Tarago Farm. It will be on till August 31. Details on trufflefestival.com.au.
- Truffle Melbourne: This weekend, the event at Queen Victoria Market will feature truffle hunts, dining events and pop-up shops showcasing the best of the country’s produce. Details on trufflemelbourne.com
- Truffle Kerfuffle: Manjimup is the heart of Australian truffle country. From June 22 - 24, chefs like Mark Best, Scott Brannigan and Guy Grossi will use truffles in their specially-curated menu for the festival. Details on trufflekerfuffle.com.au.
— The writer was in Australia on invitation from Destination NSW.
On the nose
Just like their European counterparts, Australian truffle cultivators also initially used trained pigs for hunting. Over the last decade, however, they have been replaced by dogs. Any breed can be trained to hunt, says Robinson, but most commonly Jack Russells, springer spaniels, labradors and cross breeds are used. It just depends on how curious each dog can be.
Check-in luggage
If you are heading for a hunt, buy freshly harvested ones. Or pick up truffle salts, mustards, vinegars and pates:
Gourmet Life Store, gourmetlife.com.au; Black Truffle Harvest, truffleharvest.com.au; The Truffle Farm, sdfp.com.au
Get tipsy on truffle
Vodka: Robinson makes a truffle vodka that guests can sample after the hunt. “It is simple to make: just place a few pieces of truffle in a bottle of good quality vodka and leave in the freezer for a week or so. We don’t sell the vodka, but you can always buy your own truffles from us to put in a bottle,” he says.
Beer: If you prefer hops, head to BentSpoke Brewing Co in Canberra, for their signature Silverback beer. The website promises a “dark malty strong ale infused with cumquats, mandarins, star anise, cinnamon, vanilla beans and truffles”.
Overnight
Truffle Cottage: Turalla Truffles’ newly-renovated farm-style cottage accommodation has sweeping rural views, a modern kitchen and cosy sitting room with a wood fire burner and WiFi, so you can make all your Insta followers jealous. The three-bedroom space houses six. At $400 (₹20,500) per night, fresh truffles will be supplied for guests each night. Add on a hunt and lunch options at additional cost. Details and booking on turallatruffles.com.au.
L’Air Du Wombat: Choose from a self-contained unit for a romantic weekend (₹24,600), a bush cabin for those who like to rough it (₹15,300 for two), or a glamping caravan for the luxury seekers (₹21,500 for family of four). All packages include a minimum two-night stay (Friday and Saturday), a bottle of local wine and a truffle cheese platter on arrival, along with two tickets for Saturday’s truffle hunt valued at $180 (₹9,200). Details and booking on trufflehunting.com.au.
