Affluent millennials are changing watchmaking trends. Instead of ‘old school luxury’, data released by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry states that from early 2017, luxury watch companies have been seeing a strong demand for designs that blend the old and the modern. “Younger buyers like the attention-grabbing nature of bright-coloured watches in materials such as ceramic or new types of metal coatings. They see this as a way of getting attention without the pretentiousness of wearing something wealth-suggesting such as gold and diamonds,” says Ariel Adams, founder of California-based aBlogtoWatch digital media publication. This trend is now pushing watchmakers to explore newer manufacturing techniques — like the new Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH (a material stronger than steel) with a Carbotech bezel — he adds.
We pick five timepieces that are innovating with their case materials.
Carbotech in Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm: The diver’s watch is known for its special alloy case — a blend of titanium, nickel, aluminium, zirconium and copper. For 2019, the watchmaker has introduced a new edition, with a bezel made of Carbotech. “The 47mm case is made of BMG-TECH, a material stronger than steel with greater resistance to corrosion, external shocks, and magnetic fields. Its bezel is made of Carbotech, a material based on carbon fibre, and best known for its toughness and exceptional lightness. The result is a tougher, lighter watch with a bolder look,” says Gaby Bitarian, Brand Director, Middle East & India, Officine Panerai. The timepiece is powered by the in-house P.9010 automatic movement, which promises three days of power reserve. Approximately ₹10,40,310.
Pink sapphires in Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Celestial: This watch uses more traditional exotics like alligator leather to showcase high jewellery in watchmaking. Crafted for female connoisseurs, the watch has a dial decorated with enamelled constellations — the sky seen above Le Sentier, the manufacturer’s home in Switzerland — and signs of the zodiac. Available in two versions, the map is encircled by a bezel set with either graduating shades of pink sapphires or brilliant-cut diamonds. Augmenting it is a dial enamelled in shades of pink-gold or silver, and a grey alligator strap finished with contrasting top-stitching. “As collectors, we all like stories around our watches. The use of such materials also bring out certain textures that are unique to that watch, making it a one-of-a-kind piece,” says Vishesh Sahni, managing partner at Rohit Bal Luxury and founder of Vishawatch. Approximately ₹28,97,500.
Graphene in Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1: Discovered by two scientists from the University of Manchester — which won them the Nobel Prize in 2010 — graphene is six times lighter than steel and 200 times stronger. Richard Mille is the world’s first watchmaker to use the ‘super material’ in the watches, when it introduced the exceptional RM 50-03 McLaren F1 in 2017. Created in collaboration with British Formula 1 automaker McLaren, the watch weighs just 38 grams, making it the lightest split-second chronograph with a tourbillon in the world. The case is made from carbon TPT (thin-ply technology) and graphene. According to Richard Mille, “McLaren was already pioneers in the application of carbon to F1 cars back in the 1980s, and many aspects of our approach dovetailed nicely.” Approximately ₹69,81,900.
Sapphire crystal in Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire: The newest version of this watch is completely transparent, thanks to the use of sapphire crystal. Traditionally used as a safety glass for the dial, it is extremely difficult to produce. Yet, Hublot has made an entire case from it. They first experimented with the concept in 2016, when they showcased the Big Bang Unico Sapphire. “Hublot uses the Kyropoulos process (bulk growth to obtain single crystals) to work from a larger block of sapphire crystal, to cut the watch components. Thanks to this, the sapphire is more resistant,” says Raphael Nussbaumer, Product & Purchasing Director. Approximately ₹1,03,33,220.
Carbon Thin Ply in Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon: Two years ago, Bulgari introduced the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater at Baselworld, with a super-slim titanium case encasing the world’s thinnest minute repeater movement. Last year, the watchmaker refined the design with a Carbon Thin Ply (CTP) case — a thermosetting epoxy resin reinforced with carbon fibre, which not only makes it extremely light but also very sturdy. The use of carbon fibre for a minute repeater is practically unheard of in watchmaking because of its sound resonating property. However, Pascal Brandt, Bulgari’s Senior Watches Communications Director, says this watch is unique as “[there] is a 10% improvement on resonance over the oft-favoured titanium”. Approximately ₹1,11,70,100.
