It was a conversation many years ago in a barber’s shop that led me to one of the most sublime kachori outlets in Delhi. I was getting my hair trimmed when a fellow customer began telling us all about the (dal) moth -topped kachori in Multani Dhanda, Paharganj. We all drooled as the barbers snipped away. Soon after, I went looking for moth kachori — and ended up forging an everlasting relationship with it.
A few years ago, a foodie reader of this column told me about a place in East Delhi where this moth kachori was available, too. We went to Nagpal di Hatti (Phone: 9213741815 and 9213275645) in Gandhi Nagar, near Geeta Colony, and I recall we had a great time trying out the fare there.
In these isolated times, we look for happy memories. I suppose that’s why I had a yearning for some moth kachori a few days ago, at lunchtime.
I found out that Nagapl was on Zomato, so I promptly placed an order for two plates (₹40 a piece; ₹75 for two), and since I was going down the greasy path, a plate of chholey bhaturey (₹90). Because one should have a balanced diet, I asked for a plate of saag (greens) and rice (₹80) as well. All this at ₹449 — street food rates.
First, let me tell you about the kachori . This Multani speciality (which was introduced to this city after Partition) consists of a crisp kachori filled with a paste of dried dal, and topped with moth, with surprising specks of rice in it, onion strips and chutneys.
I broke a kachori into half, and found it deliciously crunchy, the softness of the dal complementing it. The moth dal on top, of course, set it apart from others, giving it a different taste and texture.
I had a small piece of the bhatura , and found that it was nicely stuffed with paneer. The chholey that came with it was rather good. Surprisingly not very oily, it was just rightly spiced. I loved the palak — the spinach was creamy and well cooked, and had little besan dumplings in the gravy that gave a delicious twist to what could have been a plain dish. Though it came with a plate of jeera rice, I had mine with a roti, and enjoyed it thoroughly.
In these pandemic times, it was nice meeting my old friend, the moth kachori .
And I am happy to have struck a new friendship — with Nagpal’s palak and kofta .
The writer is a seasoned food critic
