Sicily has been a centre of wine production since the Roman times thanks to its unique microclimate and varying topography. But its reputation as a wine region was nowhere near that of say Chianti in Tuscany or Barolo in Piedmont. Unfortunately, the wine quality was not always up to the mark – dull whites, heavy reds, and overly sweet notes dominated. In the last 15 to 20 years, this has changed with winemakers choosing to embrace the island’s indigenous grapes. Donnafugata, a 35-year-old Sicilian wine brand is one such that is at the forefront of the resurgence.
Island magic
Though the brand may be relatively young, the Rallo family that owns it has been in the wine-making business for five generations. Currently, Donnafugata is co-owned by the fifth-generation Antonio & José Rallo. “The brand was created in 1983 by Giacomo Rallo and his wife Gabriella,” says Elena Bortoletto, Donnafugata’s export manager who was in Mumbai last month to launch the brand’s India debut. “Rallo was part of a Marsala family (Marsala is one of the most important fortified wines from the region) so he had the technical know-how and Gabriella had inherited several vineyards. That’s how Donnafugata came about.”
Donnafugata which translates to ‘woman in flight’ or ‘runaway woman’ originates from an incident in Sicilian history. “Sicily was a kingdom with Naples as its capital. The queen was Marie Antoinette’s sister and married to a Berber king,” explains Bortoletto. “When Napoleon wanted to plant his flag in Sicily, the king and queen fled Naples and took refuge in the Palace of Donnafugata. The palace was located in the area where we have our vineyards. So that’s how the name came about, and the logo is of a woman with her hair blowing in the wind to remember the queen’s escape.”
So what makes Sicilian wines great? “The indigenous grape varieties make the Sicilian wines stand out, for example Nero d’Avola that is the king of the reds. Then we have Catarratto, Ansonica, and Grillo, for the whites,” says Bortoletto. “Another important point is the weather condition, which is pretty consistent on the island.” The focus on indigenous grapes has made it possible for Sicilian winemakers to produce elegant wines that are easy to consume and approachable for most people. Apart from the weather, the soil too plays an important role. Sicily is a huge island and every region has a different type of soil. “For example, Contessa Entellina has limestone clay soil, Pantelleria has volcanic soil, Vittoria has sandy soil very close to the sea, and then there’s the distinctive volcanic soil of Etna”, says Bortoletto as she reels off the names of the regions where Donnafugata has vineyards. The export manager adds that the Donnafugata wine labels are created in collaboration with Venice-based painter and illustrator Stefano Vitale who has designed covers of books and magazines, including a cover for Paulo Coelho’s The Alchemist . The brand is pioneering for the use of colours, which represent the sun, the soil, and the culture of Sicily. “In the 80s, most wine labels were very classic, black & white, but we have put the soul and energy of Sicily on our labels,” she says.
India calling
While the domestic market is not yet saturated, Donnafugata started looking at international territories three years ago. They currently count the US, Germany, and Japan as major export markets. India, with its huge potential, is obviously an attractive target. “Wine business is a long-term business, not like spirits. People have to know the wine, know its story and the grape varieties; they have to approach the wine step by step, especially in an emerging market like India”, says Bortoletto.
While the brand has a large repertoire, they have chosen to debut in India with two from their ‘Fresh & Informal’ range. “It’s a collection made mostly from indigenous grapes,” says the export manager. “We are launching Anthìlia and Sedàra both of which represent the area of Contessa Entellina (where Donnafugata has 283 hectares) very well.” The locale is a hillside area with a big difference between daytime and night time temperatures in summer, which leads to fresh and mineral wines. Anthìlia is a fresh and fruity white made predominantly with local Catarratto grapes blended with other varieties. Sedàra is a beautiful ruby red, a blend of Nero d’Avola and other grapes like Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah.
Donnafugata wines are available at leading restaurants and retail shops in Mumbai; from ₹2,995.
