My first visit to the Tsukiji fish market in Japan was in 2007. I was interning at Hotel Okura’s Yamazato restaurant in Tokyo bay. I had no idea about the market until I landed there. Tsukiji fish market was a revelation for me. It opened very early and by the time the stock arrived and was ready to be picked, buyers would have already lined up. The constant buzz of vehicles coming in and out made the place very noisy. Otherwise, it functioned purely on hand signals. No screaming or yelling was involved to bargain or place orders. Once the fish were bought with the specific cut, all the buyer needed to do was pick up a neat package from the dispatch section.
In this Sept. 26, 2018, photo, Tai Yamaguchi of fish wholesaler Hitoku Shoten, speaks during an interview with the Associated Press at Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. Japan’s famed Tsukiji fish market is closing down on Saturday, Oct. 6, 2018 after eight decades, with shop owners and workers still doubting the safety of its replacement site. “If the new place were better, I’ll be happy to move,� said Yamaguchi. Yamaguchi feels it has been mishandled by authorities who failed to fully consult those affected. (AP Photo/Koji Sasahara)
I was surprised to witness the processing sections at the market. One could spend hours looking at the tuna processing units alone. I was most fascinated to learn that every tuna cut had a dedicated processing area. Also, surprisingly, this place was stench-free. One would only be able to see local people as far as one’s peripheral vision went. Non-locals usually wouldn’t shop here because of the extremely early operative hours of the market. The many extended shops that spilled onto the streets made the market seem crowded. The only permanent structures were the places where tuna was auctioned. What made the market precious and dear to all was everything it had to offer. Every fish that came was of the best quality. The best catch from around the world came here. Good-quality octopuses were shipped from the Indian seas. The sheer variety made this market magnificent.
Whilst buying and having first-hand experience at fish-processing techniques, I learned a lot about marine life from the vendors. They could tell the quality of the fish by just looking at it, also identifying where it came from; they could easily discern whether it was farmed or caught at sea.
The vendors also stressed a lot on seasonal availability. They didn’t just sell fish there. If one had the time, they would graciously discuss everything, from the life span of the tuna to when and how each part should be eaten. They are a knowledgeable lot. Their knowledge is much more valuable as it comes from experience.
There is another reason why this space is so dear to me: There is a small marketplace nestled next to Tsukiji. Here, they make knives and every intricate kitchen gadget that one needs. All the tools are handmade and can be customised in terms of size. It is so specialised and vast that if you goes looking for a grinder to grind 100 grams of sesame, you will undoubtedly find it. Assuming anything else is slander. Now that the fish market is being relocated, I wonder if this tool market will be moved as well.
(As told to Prabalika M Borah)
