When Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac’s suggestion of a minimum of 10 years’ ageing for cognacs came into effect, Christophe Valtaud was unfazed.
“Since 1715, the House of Martell has always crafted the finest cognacs with passion and generosity,” says the cellar master via email, “Martell Cordon Bleu and Martell XO are no exceptions. This new regulation doesn’t affect Martell XO cognacs in any way, as they are already blended with 10YO and above eaux-de-vie.”
Having said that, Valtaud does acknowledge a steady demographic shift in the customer base of this high-end brandy variant.
“The days of the cliché cognac drinkers are long gone. It is no more reserved to cigar smokers curling up next to a roaring fire while casually swirling a snifter of the amber-coloured liquor. The Indian discerning consumer has started to experiment with their taste buds, and is now trying new drinks beyond the regular beers and whiskies.”
The change, he adds, is a global one, as younger and younger folk are gravitating towards it. Needless to say, the drinkers are causing a shift in drinking style as well.
“It can be mixed with quality mixers, such as soda or traditional lemonade, to make a long drink, or used to make a cocktail,” points out the cellar master, not particularly disturbed by this reclamation of what was originally a gentleman’s drink with a somewhat stuffy image. “There is a younger audience that does not mind having Martell VS & VSOP with cocktails or on the rocks, while a more mature drinker savours his Martell XO neat.”
“We have seen a clear trend shift in Cognac drinking patterns, and the social drinking patterns in general in India and across the world,” he says, “Globally, we find that consumers are becoming much more knowledgeable about cognac and this trend is being followed by the well-travelled Indian drinker as well.”
How to begin
If Valtaud is to be believed, Cognac manufacturers like Martell are embracing this shift, and are more than happy to aid young experimenters. In fact, he has a slew of suggestions ready.
“The best way to introduce cognac to a novice drinker would be to start with an accessible cognac tasting of three different cognacs — Martell Noblige, Cordon Bleu and Martell XO — leading your guests from the lighter to the more intense tasting cognacs,” he begins.
“Of course, mixology is also a very good way to introduce cognac to youngsters, through exciting cocktails or long drinks, mixing cognac with tonic, ginger ale or green tea for example.”
“At Martell of course, we prefer our Cognac is tasted in a way that reveals all its authenticity and complexity. But the true richness of our House is the mingling of cultures, and we understand, respect and valorise the diversity of ways to enjoy our cognac.”