Mumbai’s fledgling microbrewery scene lost its opening act when Lower Parel’s Barking Deer shut down and we wondered if the space would turn into another generic ‘gastro-pub’. Enter business scion, visual artist, and beer entrepreneur Vir Kotak. “When I first saw the space, I saw tremendous potential. Being an old mill building the volumes are generous. The most exciting part was the first floor with its sloping roof – I knew we could create a breathtaking space,” says Kotak. And breathtaking it is. Instead of going the dive-pub/taproom way, Mumbai’s newest bar Thirsty City 127 is a stylish cocktail bar with an attached microbrewery.
Deco dekko
Step inside and you’re transported back into time to the elegance of the Jazz Age. “The decor at Thirsty City 127 harks back to an age when beauty and decadence were literally carved into the concrete and stone of Bombay,” says Kotak. Bespoke Art Deco touches abound, from the door and window jaalis that sport handcrafted iron and brass botanical motifs referencing beer and cocktail making – wheat, barley, hops, juniper, etc. – to the ziggurat of gilt-edged mirrors gleaming behind the bar. Add to this the polished terrazzo floor and bar top, and plush velvet-upholstered seating, it’s all very tastefully Gatsby-esque.
The expansive space is divided into three sections – the bar area next to the beer tanks, a central space that will be used as an events section, and an upstairs mezzanine which is the private dining area brilliantly lit up with hundreds of bulbs hanging from the ceiling. Kotak says that the events space will be used only for eclectic acts that go with the theme of the bar, so expect high-quality live jazz, an art cinema festival, a ceramics workshop, and select restaurant pop-ups. Thirsty City 127 is also showcasing Kotak’s curated private collection, Collection at No. 8, which is a retrospective of modernist print-maker and sculptor Krishna Reddy. “Besides a strong selection of the gorgeous, evocative prints that he is best known for, the show also includes rare watercolours, drawings, and two sculptures that have never been seen publicly before”, shares Kotak.
Crafting a story
Kotak’s beer brand Thirsty is available on tap and there’s a seasonal menu as well – we tried the Mango Tango by Thirsty, a Berlin-style wheat beer, which is typically flavoured with fruit syrup; this one goes local with pureed mango for a fresh and fruity drink. But Thirsty City 127 is not just a brewpub. There’s an exciting craft cocktail menu created by mixologist Santosh Kukreti who is a deft hand with seasonal ingredients and house-made botanicals. We try the Smokey Affair, a potent gin-based number with smoked grain and herbs, dill cordial, and a hint of chocolate. It turns out to be an aromatic and refreshing accompaniment to our meal. Kotak reels off a few of his favourites; “I’d start with a Wabi Sabi, which is our take on a classic whiskey sour, and after that a Beet Tapache, which is a home fermented beetroot based cocktail spiked with tequila,” he recommends.
The food menu curated by Chef Gracian D’Souza has a selection of tiny and small plates (made for sharing). From the tiny plates menu, we recommend the Poutine with Chorizo Ragout and the Sriracha Seafood; the latter is a platter of deep-fried seafood flavoured with sriracha and served with spicy aioli. There’s room for improvement, of course. The pizza menu, crafted by 1Tablespoon’s chef-owner Varun Sheth, does a close approximation of the Napolitano pizza, but the topping that we tried (chorizo) disappointed – the Goan-style, vinegary chorizo clashed with the tomato and mozzarella. Among the small plates, the Soft Shell Taco with Asian-style pork could have done with more punchy flavours, but the Lamb Meatballs were definitely moreish. The Pan Fried Gnocchi generously doused in a sage and stout sauce was, hands down, our dish of the day – we practically licked the bowl clean.
Thirsty City 127, Mathuradas Mills, Lower Parel; 9136942030; timings: 6 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.
