Bandra-Khar’s overcrowded restaurant scene got a new addition last month with the opening of Oi – Kitchen & Bar that brings the taste of Lat-Am cuisine to the ’burbs. The 3,200-sq.ft. space is a quirky mismatch of décor styles with Spanish floor tiles, marble-topped tables, jewel-toned seating in deep turquoise and gold, and a glossy black bar. Coupled with lively music and a convivial, cosy atmosphere, Oi is likely to become your go-to happy place.
Behind the scenes
The folks behind London Taxi and Butterfly High have partnered with consulting Chef Anuroopa Banerjee Gupta who brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise from her stints at Gaggan Bangkok and Valladolid in Spain. Gupta’s path to the kitchen has been circuitous – after a decade in the PR & Communications field, she headed to Rome to study at the Italian Chef Academy, trained under Chef Ornella De Felice (of Top Chef Italy fame), and curated intimate dinner pop-ups in Melbourne and beyond. “This is my first commercial venture in India and I was very clear that I wanted to work with local ingredients sourced from small farmers and also make sure that we have a zero-waste kitchen”, says Gupta. Her philosophy is reflected in the menu with dishes designed to include every part of the vegetable. The focus on sustainable practices is evident in the quarterly seafood calendar created by InSeason Fish to ensure that the kitchen sources fish responsibly and also promotes seafood diversity.
Say cheers
The bar menu is extensive and features craft cocktails made with in-house bitters and liqueurs. The Oi Jackfruit Bellini is a great start to the meal, combining the sweetness of jackfruit liqueur with the freshness of sparkling wine. The signature Sandalwood Berry Old Fashioned is a bit heavy-handed with the sandalwood but the hands-down winner is the fresh and fruity Granadilla Martini with gin and fresh passion fruit. A drink trolley is on hand so you can have the cocktails mixed at your table or you can even try your hand at bartending by mixing your own drink at the bar. There’s also an elixirs menu with healthy, non-alcoholic, sugar-free drinks featuring fresh cold-pressed juices combined with house-made infusions and syrups.
Taste test
Apart from some of the chillies and exotic ingredients, the menu largely works with local ingredients. The dishes are aesthetically plated and in general have the punchy flavours you’d expect from a Lat-Am inspired menu. We start with the Seasonal Fruit Gazpacho, a refreshing cold soup with tomatoes, cucumber, red peppers and in-season strawberries, garnished with small balls of house-made mozzarella. The Roasted Pumpkin Salad that follows is one of the best salads we have tasted in recent times. Caramelised slow-roasted pumpkin is served inside a pumpkin shell, topped with mixed greens, feta, and Greek yoghurt. The small plates take you on a journey through South America, beginning with an expertly cured and presented Lobster and Avocado Ceviche. Burrata still continues its popular run across Mumbai menus – the Oi version sits in roasted pepper salsa and is accompanied by red pepper coulis, toasted walnuts, and seasonal fig jam. After the bold flavours of these dishes, the Mushroom and Manchego Croquetas seem a tad under-seasoned though the truffle aioli is top-notch.
From the large plates designed for sharing, we try the tacos – the Tofu Tacos lack texture and bite but the Pulled Duck Tacos more than make up for it. The real winner though, is the Slow-cooked Lamb, which is served with grilled winter vegetables and sweet potato mash. “The lamb is first marinated for two days and then pressure-cooked for 10-12 hours, and finally slow-cooked in an open pot for eight-10 hours”, explains Gupta. It is tender and flavourful and is served with a choice of herb rice or beetroot tacos. We end the meal with the Dulce de Leche Cookie – decadent dulce de leche sandwiched between sable discs and served with a fresh mint cream whip to cut the sweetness. Chocolate lovers won’t be disappointed with the airy Flourless Cake with a side of hazelnut mousse and orange jelly.
Oi – Kitchen & Bar, Khar West; 9619994288; 6 p.m. to 1.15 a.m. (lunch hours start from mid-March).
