In a city where eating out is fraught with the pressures of knowing your food and drink — where it comes from, what the original in Shanghai or Kyoto tastes like, who does it best in India — Poppins Hotel gives us a break. It takes us back to a childhood where eating out just about anywhere — at a friend’s, on a railway platform, at a small eatery down the road — was a treat.
This is Sabyasachi Gorai's (known in city circles as Chef Saby) new venture, and in a note in the menu, he says the “food at Poppins may not fuel your search for ‘something different’ or ‘something new’. It might also not get you Insta followers, but it will probably satisfy your soul!”
I’m not sure I’d go as deep as the soul, but it does have a relaxed feel, in terms of the way everything’s done. The menu is divided into two: veg and non-veg, thereby reducing complexity. There are the curries that can be had with the sides, but the staff says they’re happy to change those up and do them dry. There are no over-promising cocktails (except the martini, which is avoidable). The drinks are well priced at ₹95 for a Smirnoff Vodka and ₹175 for a Jim Beam, so you don’t have to sneak in a couple before you get out for dinner.
The vibe: A neighbourhood casual dining restaurant. Simple, so you can concentrate on the food and the company you go with. It’s predominantly brown with splashes of primary and secondary colours in the tablemats, upholstery, and a mural (like the Poppins we ate as kids). There’s an #eattherainbow signage on the bar, which, for a change isn’t forcing you to eat your veggies — it’s encouraging you to try different dishes from across the country (Gowda Mutton Masala, Andhra Green Chilli Chicken, Rodriguez Roast, Jackfruit Pepper Masala, for instance).
Do try: The Koliwada Fish Fry that was crunchy on the outside and done just right on the inside. The ‘Haathe Garam’ Vegetable Chop, from the chef’s memory of the train stopping at Kharagpur Station, is really a mixed veg barrel-shaped cutlet that’s easy on the palate and familiar.
The interiors at Poppins Hotal with an #eattherainbow mural
The Pal Katti Ghee Roast with onions, curry leaves and a roasted masala spice is perfect for the winter, with both the freshness (of the paneer) and the spiciness (of the red masala) in the same dish.
The Gwalior Slims, buff seekh kabab, which is not overpowering its flavouring.
The Milk Sev Bhaaji, which the chef says he discovered on the road to Jhansi, is really just sev in milk.
The Angry Brownie, a gluten-free ragi brownie, which I actually preferred to its maida cousin, because it wasn’t sickeningly sweet. The bebinca, but only if you like the dessert. This one has a distinctly home-made feel, with a nicely brown, chewy bottom that we went at first.
Skip: The Mathania Mutton that was a tad too oily with gravy that tended to overpower the meat. There’s nothing terribly wrong with the Malabari Parota, but I’ve tasted better — it could have been a tad more crispy on the outside, and less chewy.
Go with: Friends, order half plates, get a few drinks, and while an afternoon away.
Space bar: 1,500 sq ft, 70 covers
How much? ₹800 for two (sans alcohol)
Reach: First floor, Cross Point Mall, DLF Phase 4. Walk down from a friend’s or drive.
