It seems like another old but renovated Goan house. There’s a vintage bike at the entrance. A dog bounds about playfully. A sense of laziness permeates the afternoon air. A tiled path leads into a garden area and an open balcony. There are tables and chairs laid out in both spaces. An attendant sits on a sofa, knitting.
It may seem like a place of idyll, yet this place on a busy road in Anjuna holds memories within its folds. As of December 2019, this house became Edible Archives, a restaurant and research centre with the goal of championing ingredients. The subject has always fascinated chef Anumitra Dostidar Ghosh.
The 37-year-old used her research experience gained while doing a PhD in cognitive linguistics to focus on exploring ingredients. She and her partner, writer Shalini Krishnan spent three years travelling across India seeking out lesser-known indigenous rice varieties and documenting them. The resultant findings became the Edible Archives project. These heritage rice varieties became sensory exhibits (think meal bowls) at Kochi Muziris Biennale 2018-19.
Shared experiments
After a successful run in Kochi where the duo served different rice varieties paired with dishes across South Asian cuisine, Edible Archives moved to Goa. “We wanted a base for our research, a space to experiment and share our results with people,” says Ghosh, adding that she always wanted to settle down in Goa.
The restaurant feels like the backyard of someone’s home, familiar and comfortable. The seating is outdoor, wooden tables and wicker chairs. The restaurant works with local potters to source their tableware: from bottles of water to serving bowls and plates. They even have crocheted coasters.
This is no Goan food menu though there are familiar elements: kokum, sausages, sannas, Moira bananas, and cashew nuts. The most intriguing spice, the tephal (or teppal) makes its peppery way into a Teppal Vodka Collins (₹450), giving the drink a refreshing citrusy kick. Part of Ghosh’s menu changes almost every week, driven by what’s available. “The menu is about the freshest things available, and the dry things we can carry easily. The dishes let the ingredients shine,” she says. The offering bears influence from all the places and people Ghosh has worked with: Chinese, Japanese, French, Italian, Bengali and Goan.
For a Goan, the menu is intriguing. The food isn’t predictable and the ingredients demand attention, and thought. Take the Pan Seared Leppo (₹280). This popular fish is typically enjoyed in a vibrant curry or fried till the bones are crispy enough to eat. Ghosh turns it on its head, serving the fish whole with the barest of searing, the pink meat soaked in lemon juice and garlic. Another popular item gives the Goan long beans, and green brinjal, a Northern Chinese touch. Shanxi-style brinjal and long beans (₹250) is a stir fry, dusted with cashew nuts, garlic and chillies. “I ate this dish in China,” says Ghosh. “When I came to Goa and saw these ingredients, it intrigued that memory of mine. I decided to pick the ingredients from here and treat them differently. It’s now become a bestseller.” Goan and Bengali food find the perfect partnership in the piquant Mustard Coconut Prawns with Sannas (₹450). The pillowy sannas are typically eaten with a spicy sorpotel but, here, their sweetness is a balm to the pungent prawns.
All in one
Show a Goan a thali that doesn’t have fish and they will look at you in surprise. Yet, the Edibale Archives’ thali – essentially a bowl – is polished off within minutes. The Bowl of the Week (veg, ₹300), has raja mudi rice from Karnataka, yellow dal, raw papaya stir fried with coconut, a mushy raw banana and sweet potato kofta, a tangy Sri Lankan pickle, and grilled aubergine with dill. On their own, they each pack a bold punch but, the rice melds the flavours together well.
Another surprise for the Goans is the dessert. Moira bananas are a beloved variant of the fruit, typically eaten steamed, roasted, fried, or cooked with a sugar syrup. Here, Ghosh caramelises banana slices, heightening their sweetness. There’s warmth from the toasted pistachios, and ice cream – creamy and not rich – for relief from the sweet. The Caramelised Moira Plantains with Pistachios and Ice cream (₹350) does justice to every ingredient on the plate. It’s a dish that highlights what can be done with good produce.
Ghosh is very particular about her ingredients. She buys fish, produce and other ingredients herself, visiting markets and jetties daily. She uses old equipment like an ICMIC charcoal cooker, stone grinders and cast iron utensils. The plan is to buy less and finish everything; food waste goes into compost. They will soon start a permaculture garden. “This is not just a restaurant,” she says.
At 1301, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Kumbhar, Gumal Vaddo; Goa. Time:Noon to 11 p.m. daily;phone: 8308830750
