I sat down at a table that had 23 other guests for a curated dinner titled Circle of Life by Lore, at The Courtyard in Bengaluru. I knew no one there and came in as ignorant of what to expect, as a baby. Which was befitting, considering the meal was inspired by our life cycle, from infancy to adulthood.
There was muted conversation among those who knew each other, but it was only when the first course was served that across-the-table banter erupted. Indicative of babyhood, we were served umami milk in a feeding bottle, Farex biscuits and a trio of mashed vegetables. This course had strangers break the ice to discuss childhood memories. From eating baby cereal straight from the box even as adults, to abhorring certain vegetables; and secretly still loving plain milk, old memories found kindred spirits across the table. Each of the next six courses triggered several such memories and had us trying to guess how the next plate would be presented from the picture cards we were given.
Creating narratives
Such meals with a narrative are increasingly giving chefs a platform to be uninhibitedly creative and a way for diners to experience and connect with their food.
“Creating a narrative for a meal helps people make a connection with their food,” believes chef and consultant Anumitra, who has worked in Japan; and with brands like Diva in Delhi. Social media today dictates the good and the bad, and eating choices are determined by the market. “Why are people interested in food facts they see online?” she asks. “Because it is intriguing, but often you don’t know the context. I usually take five to six months to work on the concept, read up on the history and then come up with dishes based on ingredients and their availability.”
Anumitra has showcased in Delhi. Another showcase in Bengaluru, was of the seven Northeastern states — not by specific dishes, but by blending together key ingredients and flavours, making the discovery of the region’s cuisine all the more intriguing.
All about the discovery
“The prospect of discovery, is the oldest way to grab attention,” says Kanishka Sharma, founder, The Tenth Muse and Supper Club in Bengaluru. And many a stimulating conversation has come off her tables with themes like Japanese bodega-style dining and a nose-to-tail pork dinner.
“Food that has meaning, where the flavours stimulate your imagination and provide information, is what keeps Supper Club alive.”
Speaking of imagination, Ujwala Bhat, owner of The Latin Mess, in Mumbai, has been a regular at The Literary Table, which has had meals centred on Harry Potter, Haruki Murakami, and more recently, Game of Thrones. “As a diner, if I like a theme and follow it closely, then it makes sense to relive the memories through food. At A Feast For The Throne, based on the GoT series and books, we had a dessert that was set afire at the table. It was inspired by the sequence where Drogon burns down King’s Landing and the Iron Throne. To see all those dishes you read about or associate with stories, be translated into a plate of food, is a wonderful way to relive the magic and the entire experience,” says Bhat.
Putting that imagination on a plate is what works for co-founders of The Literary Table, Chef Shriya Shetty and travel and food writer, Shirin Mehrotra. With these tables, Shriya found the creative freedom to cook what she loved, without sticking to the theme of a restaurant. For Shirin, working on every aspect of the pop-up, from finalising a theme, finding the right venue, to the DIY menus and setting up the table, satisfied her creative urge.
Bhavisha Dave, co-founder, Capsul Collective, says, “After attending my first table, I realised that I couldn’t remember the last time I had a meal that lasted three hours, filled with stimulating conversation, during which I barely touched my phone! And that’s when I decided to keep attending them.”
Priya Bala, food writer and author, who has created tables around Sri Lankan conflict regions and its regional cuisine, says, “A drink and a meal is the usual, but if someone wants to come to grips with a cuisine, a story helps. The experience is soulful — from interacting with the chef, to how and where the food presented is rooted. As a chef, to do it in a small format is hugely gratifying.”
Memories of flavour
“Food can transport a person, especially through memories. We have seen guests react to these stories,” says Johnson Ebenezer, chef patron of Lore.
Bone broth ramen with chilli oil inspired from Dumbledore and Pensieve, by The Literary Table. Photo by Varun Shetty
“My biggest interest is meeting new people, and that’s been my takeaway from all the previous tables I have attended. Apart from food enthusiasts, I’ve met such an interesting group of new people which has been tremendously enriching,” says Dhruv Mullick, partner, zlait Sports.
“Curating an experience from start to finish is at the core of it all,” says Kanishka.
“The planning that goes into every meal, begins weeks — sometimes months — in advance, because that’s what it takes for each one to be unique. There is a thrill that comes with the pressure, and satisfaction that comes with the sheer amount of work. The story, the chefs, the serve-ware, the libations, decor, table, menu design — all weave themselves around the food. The relationship between all these aspects of the meal is evident to the perceptive diner, and I believe that is what keeps them coming back.”
