Review | Food

Jeremy - The Grub Pub tries to be a “global kitchen”

The Jeremy Special Daal Makhni

The Jeremy Special Daal Makhni   | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Familiar favourites that don’t require too much thought or effort — for the diner that is!

Nestled in a quiet building further along the glittering lights and shiny glass-fronted buildings that make up Gurugram’s Golf Course Road, is Jeremy-The Grub Pub. It replaces Biker’s Café, a long-time Gurgaon watering hole. Who is Jeremy? you may ask. It’s a bit of a conceit really, created by the owners who remain the same. Jeremy is an entirely fictitious, supposedly globe-trotting, worldly-wise savant who’s been everywhere and done everything and this glammed up, grown-up version of its previous avatar, his play-ground.

The Vibe: While the leather couches and baroque lights may be an appropriate setting for a modern-day Gatsby, the huge bas relief cowboy — complete with steed — that appears to be propping up one end of the retro art deco style bar, left me a bit confused. A large installation of a generic airport lounge complete with random travellers, dominates one end of the restaurant. The idea I guess, is to take the travel-theme forward. Instead it ends up a wee bit tacky. Also the multiple TV screens running what could pass for a hotel in-house promotion campaign in loop, proved an irritating distraction.

Do try: The menu is extensive, showcasing what the promoters call a “global kitchen”, so there’s a nod to every continent, with plenty on offer to vegetarians. Like the eponymous, peripatetic Jeremy, we too, decided to globetrot, ordering across the menu. For mains, the Norwegian Salmon Teriyaki proved to be a fairly generous plate, with a perfectly cooked, flaky, moist filet of fish accompanied with buttery mashed potatoes and greens. On the other hand, the Spanish-style Gambas Pili Pili, (piri piri prawns to you and me), while good, was more a tapas-sized serve, since the only side was some garlic toast. The Tipsy Vegetarian Delight pizza sounded intriguing, as the menu promised a flambé at the table with Old Monk rum. I’m not sure that the dash of booze was an improvement to an otherwise quite nice pizza, but it did provide some supper theatre! The standout surprisingly was the Jeremy Special Daal Makhani — an intensely smoky version; elevated by the use of dhungaar, a traditional Rajasthani method of smoking food with a live coal, aromats and ghee.

Asparagus, silken tofu and shiitake dimsum

Asparagus, silken tofu and shiitake dimsum   | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Skip: On the whole while nothing is objectionable, it is a menu that aims to be all things to all people. There’s the same sense of slight confusion suggested by the décor. We ordered the highly recommended Asparagus, silken tofu and shiitake dimsum. Anticipating a delicate dumpling skin barely concealing soft brown mushroom punctuated by vibrant pops of green, what arrived was a turquoise terror! Of course, this is a pet personal peeve as I find the mindless addition of colouring to food particularly annoying. Again a hint of the confusion: Gimmick or glamour? You decide.

Go with: Most tables were occupied by the after-office crowd catching a drink before heading home, or millenials living close by. The loud music prevents any meaningful conversation, so Jeremy’s is NOT where you’d go on a romantic date. Every table has a speaker close by, so there are no quiet nooks (we asked!). And lastly, be prepared to stay at least three hours—main courses arrived one at a time with an average wait of 30-35 minutes per dish—even on a night with only four or five occupied tables

Space bar: 150 covers, both inside as well as in the large outdoor seating area. Children under 12 are not allowed after 6 p.m., but are welcome all day on Sundays. Pet lovers will have to leave their pooches at home.

How much? A meal for two approximately, ₹1,800, without taxes or alcohol. Since this is essentially a bar, boasting of its own in-house craft beers and extensive gin and cocktail menu, be prepared to spend much more if you intend to tipple.

Reach: A three-minute walk from Sector 53-54 stop on the Rapid Metro. If you intend to drive, there’s sufficient parking in the premises since the building houses mostly offices that are long shut after dark. Golf Course Road, DLF Phase 5, Sector 54, Gurugram

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Printable version | Apr 10, 2020 9:31:38 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/jeremy-the-grub-pub-in-gurugram-tries-to-be-a-global-kitchen/article30920995.ece

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