A food columnist who writes like an angel (if angels write, that is) once said something so wise that I still recall his words. The remark was not about food, but television. It was around the time that the satellite boom had hit India, and there were channels galore. And this was what the columnist had to say: “So much to choose from, but so little to watch.”
That’s my thought about the restaurant boom in Delhi: there are restaurants in all parts of town, but only a few places that you really want to go back to. In fact, I am a bit like a stuck record when it comes to something that I like: if it works for me, I keep going back there.
And that is why, one pleasant afternoon some days ago, I found myself in Side Wok in Malcha Marg. Actually, I must admit that it was my first time there. But I had some great meals at two other outlets of Side Wok — in Khan Market and Connaught Place (they have branches elsewhere, too). So I thought I had to try the one out in Malcha Marg.
A friend from Kolkata was in town. Every time I am in his city, he and his wife make it a point to take me out for a good meal. I try and do that when they are in Delhi, but it’s a tough act to follow for they are die-hard foodies. This time, just one of them was visiting. And since I know about his fondness for Chinese food, I thought it would be a good idea to take him to Side Wok.
The decision to go to the Malcha Marg outlet was not just because I had not gone there. It was also because I have always liked this little market in this tony south Delhi residential area. Many years ago, before Delhi became such a happening food hub, I used to often go to Malcha Marg to have a meal at Fujiya, a Chinese restaurant that I am happy to say is still going strong. The other great point in its favour is the fact that parking there is a snap. There’s ample parking space right in front of the restaurant.
So I parked my car and looked for a table for three in Side Wok. It was a weekend, and not surprisingly very busy. I was advised by one of the servers to go to Fez, which is a part of the chain that also owns Side Wok. Fez is a Mediterranean restaurant, and I have had some great meals there. We were told that we would be able to order Side Wok dishes at Fez, as well as from Fez’s own menu.
A inviting dish at Side Wok
So we asked for a mixed mezze platter (a delicious offering of fish, prawns, chicken, lamb and veggies, with pita bread, hummus, tzatziki and a great garlic-and-yoghurt dip — all for ₹985). From the Side Wok menu we asked for a plate of Singapore vegetable noodles (₹295), mixed fried rice (₹415), spare ribs (₹495) and sliced lamb with fresh red chillies and basil (₹495).
It was one of the nicest meals I have had in some time. The mezze platter was wonderful, as one would expect, but the Chinese dishes were superb, too. The pork belly was deliciously moist, and cooked just right. The fork went into the melted fat and tender meat easily, and I loved the sauce, a thick jus with just the right balance of sweet and sour. The lamb had all the right flavours, with the basil complementing the chillies. The noodles were light with crunchy vegetables, and the rice was very, very nice — with plump shrimps, chicken strips and lamb. All in all, it was an excellent meal.
The portions are generous, too. We were hungry when we went there, but found that we had to take home some left overs, which turned into our dinner that evening. So I must say it’s value for money, too.
I cheer all the new restaurants coming up in town, but I toast the old ones in particular. It’s not easy to keep old clients happy, meal after meal.
