Simone Centanni quotes Didier from Shantaram to show what Indians and Italians have in common. “The Indians are the Italians of Asia…. For both, food is music inside the body and music is food inside the heart,” he says. Simone is the coordinator of the Il dolce Vino (The Sweet Wine) project of the IICCI (Indo Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry) founded to spread awareness on Italian “enogastronomic” products and traditions. The project runs across eight Indian cities and conducts promotional activities that include Italian wine dinners, food and wine tasting, masterclass and training programmes and wine tours to Italy. “Through our wines, we want to showcase a slice of Italian culture,” says Simone adding that the project has 800 members across India.
As host of Il Dolce Vino in Kochi, Simone is ushering in a vibrant and new engagement with food and drink. The club, which has 15 members with a majority being women, recently held its third event at Taj Malabar. Thomas George, Executive Chef, Taj Malabar, is excited that such discerning food gatherings are now becoming a part of the city’s foodscape. “This brings a vibrancy to an otherwise staid food scene,” says Thomas, who has been creating dishes to pair with the characteristics of a given wine.
At a wine evening, the oenophiles or wine lovers are treated to a selection of Italian wines paired with Italian dishes over a sit-down, multi-course dinner. A white Prosecco or “ a world renowned sparkling wine ” served with antipasti starts the evening. A discussion on the wine follows and, over sips and hors d’oeuvres, the next bottle, arrives: a wine from Tuscany. Made from three grapes—Cabernet, Merlot and Sangiovese—it is served along bell pepper and zucchini soup. Nebbiolo, a signature wine from Piedmont, went with the the main course of pasta and meats. The evening finished with Brachetto, a dessert wine, along with cheese cake and a fruit ice-cream. Spread over four or five hours, these evenings are jolly parties filled with good food, wine and banter.
“I have a passion for wines. My knowledge grew when my family moved from Rome to Sardinia and began organic farming,” says Simone, explaining that the grape and terroir or environment make the wine just like the human body is made of DNA. He also explains that the rules for wine making and nomenclature are very strict in Italy. “Each geographic territory has a wine specific to the region.”
Culinary entrepreneur Madhu Babu says that her love for food and related events brought her to this club. She savours the process of slow dining and wining. “In Kerala, the idea of having wines does not exist. Our boys go straight for the hard drinks, but there is a new appeal to slow drinking and enjoying good company.” Simone also reiterates that wine evenings are the complete opposite of booze parties that are common here.
“It appeals to those who are not just passionate about wine drinking, but wish to learn about the different grapes, production and taste. It is also an opportunity to expand social networks and explore Indo-Italian co-operation,” says Nina Nayar, a consultant in micro-finance and sustainable livelihoods.
Fiona Arakkal, who farms large acres of capers, too was led by her interest in food to join. Capers are an important ingredient in Italian cuisine and she is keen to see the berry used in wine-inspired menus. “The whole point is to learn to appreciate the nuances of wine and how it is are made,” she says, adding that she is neither a wine snob nor wine illiterate, but enjoys wine with food.
Simone is pleased to be able to introduce a slice of his country’s famed food and drink style to Kochi, a city he is familiar with. He came to South India as a young boy and graduated in Social Work from Rajagiri College. His mother’s interest in Social Work brought the family to Vizhinjam. Simone speaks fluent Malayalam and knows Kerala culture and cuisine. Currently an executive with Rajagiri Business School, he helps promote Italian wines.
Like Didier, he too has his take on Indians and Italians. “We have a few things in common—we are loud, we worship the female divinity—Devi and Madonna—and we have vegetarian food.” But of the wines, he says: “Indian wines are funny, good for brunch. But Italian wines are matchless.”
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