Food

’GoNative’ review: Eat light, eat easy

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GoNative debunks any theory that vegetarian food is strait laced and not for the adventurous

Set amidst the everyday luxuries of life, the ambience at Go Native appeals to the most basic of human aesthetics — that of a light and airy space.

Go Native focuses on sustaining all things indigenous from the handloom and handcrafted products they house to the food they serve.

The menu clearly classifies dishes as vegan, gluten and Jain, making it easier for diners with dietary specifications. Go Native is testament that vegetarian fare can be delicious and satisfying. There is an attention to detail which is understated in its simplicity and this holds true from the tasteful minimalistic décor, to the way in which the food is plated, appealing to both the eye and the palate.

’GoNative’ review: Eat light, eat easy
 

In a bid to support locally grown produce, the menu at Go Native features an eclectic blend of Indian cuisine — a look at the salad section where horse gram, bitter gourd and papaya vie for your attention with fennel stems, pineapple and mushrooms in various combinations — is ample proof of that.

Moving on to the small plates, the mini Guntoor idlis stuffed with a preparation of banana stem and served with a generous sprinkling of spicy chutney powder are an interesting choice, especially for those vary of venturing into unknown culinary territory.

The beetroot pathrade, on the other hand, is an interesting twist to the traditional Mangalorean dish of rolled colocasia leaves — beetroot hummus and tangy plum sauce are part of this steamed dish here.

’GoNative’ review: Eat light, eat easy
 

The thin crust millet pizza with pickled jalapeno, caramelised onions, sweet corn and sundried tomato pesto, topped with mozzarella cheese gives a burst of delight in every bite.

The banana flower and paneer paratha is another unusual combo. While the paratha may be a tad bland, the kofta malai curry which is rich and flavourful, balances it out. A crunchy sprouts kosambari rounds it off.

Dishes like the thalipeet (desi multigrain pancake) served with falafel (a middle Eastern lentil-based snack), spinach neer dosa and mushroom ema datshi take the tried and tested to another level.

The same applies to the desserts where apple jalebi and coconut rabri compete with gulab jamun pudding and avocado kalakand and the red rice kadabu. Those who wish to play it safe can opt for the chocolate dry fruits and mint bites which do not disappoint.

Where: Go Native, 29, 14th Main Rd, Sector 4, HSR Layout. Also at 64, 10th Main Rd, 4th Block, 5th Block, Jayanagar.

Ambience: Casual chic

Wallet factor: ₹800 for 2

Hits: Mini Guntur idli, millet pizza

Misses: Beetroot pathrade

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Printable version | Dec 9, 2019 11:26:45 PM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/gonative-review-eat-light-eat-easy/article29654712.ece

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