Full meals Food

A kaleidoscope of sour, spice and sweet at Ulavacharu

The Seema Bhojanam thali

The Seema Bhojanam thali   | Photo Credit: Sanjay Borra

The Seema Bhojanam thali at Ulavacharu offers yummy morsels from the colourful Rayalaseema region

Brothers Vijay Reddy and Vinay Narahari preen a little as they share that Ulavacharu, their specialty restaurant that serves Andhra cuisine, is celebrating its sixth anniversary this month. “We are known for our biryanis and pulaos,” says Vinay. But I’m here for the thali.

At high noon, as the rest of the city swelters outside, the diners in the cool confines of Ulavacharu’s Jubilee Hills outlet are still sweating it out. Why? The in-house pachadis and pickles of the Telugu cuisine, of course! They change every day as does the welcome sweet. What remains a constant is the tall glass of buttermilk.

Recommended appetisers — which move quickly through the restaurant — include the batter-fried bangla kodi, the Ulavacharu special chicken legs and the Konaseema kodi vepudu. Keep the buttermilk on call, you’ll need it to brave these spices.

Bangla Kodi, their bestseller chicken starter | Sanjay Borra

Bangla Kodi, their bestseller chicken starter | Sanjay Borra  

The thali, priced at ₹365, is the standard non-vegetarian one — among the many thalis on offer. But this one is a little different and is quite popular, encourages Vinay. “We cut off thali servings by 2.45 pm or 3 pm, and on a weekday we plate between 80 and 100 thalis altogether.”

Ragi sangati (finger millet dumpling) is a Rayalseema region staple. Drenched in the right amount of ghee, Vinay suggests pouring the tamarind-rich ulavacharu (horsegram lentil thick soup) over the ragi, mix it thoroughly and gobble it up. And as ragi does, it fills you up after a few morsels. But don’t stop there.

A chicken starter, fried with green chillies | Sanjay Borra

A chicken starter, fried with green chillies | Sanjay Borra  

Heap up some white rice, mix it with warm-poured ghee along with a carefully measured scoop of the palli roti pachadi (ground peanut chutney).

Now, you can power through with the rest of the thali with the selection of chepala pulusu (fish curry) with the preferred korameenu (a freshwater fish) or the tender mamsam kura (mutton curry).

At this point, feel free to order a cola — to keep the karam and hiccups at bay.

Too much meat? Munch on some aratikaya bajji (raw banana fritters) or vankai (brinjal) chips.

To round off this filling, meaty meal, there’s nothing more welcome than a creamy, yet light serving of junnu, an easy-on-the-sweet-tooth dessert made with the colostrum milk from cows.

Junnu, a favourite Andhra summer dessert | Sanjay Borra

Junnu, a favourite Andhra summer dessert | Sanjay Borra  

The servers encourage this dish as it’s packed with nutrients and antibodies, thus boosting the diners immunity. Bengaluru too has an Ulavacharu, offering the same dishes.

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Printable version | Jun 3, 2020 11:09:54 PM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/full-meals-ulavacharu-seema-bhojanam-hyderabad/article27145738.ece

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