Food

From the Granny’s kitchen

Lip-smacking: Grilled fish with mashed potatoes

Lip-smacking: Grilled fish with mashed potatoes   | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Pleasing décor and amazing food make Sly Granny worth a visit

I first heard about Sly Granny from a young friend some weeks ago. She had gone to the Khan Market eatery, and enjoyed her chorizo and baby potatoes with wilted spinach and poached egg so much that she had a second helping of the same dish. I am, at present, not on speaking terms with chorizos and other porky products, but still thought Sly Granny deserved a dekko. Then, just a few days ago, we got a call from a dear friend. Were we free to have lunch with her and her daughter (our much loved niece)? The answer to that was pithy: Yes, we said.

So there we were in Khan Market one sunny afternoon, looking for Sly Granny. I asked around, and was told to take the middle lane, turning left if we were approaching it from Bahrisons. Sly Granny is on the left, on the first floor. The address is 4, Khan Market, and the phone number for booking your tables (which you should do, because it was rather busy on a weekday, too) is 011-4905 8941.

The décor is pleasing, with nice old-style posters on the staircase and the walls. And on the window sills they have lots of fresh herbs growing, which are added to salads and other dishes, we were told by the helpful servers. Sly Granny, which has a branch in Bangalore, opened in Delhi in August.

We asked for chicken salad with walnut and celery – from the small plates section. Our friend wanted fish moilee with curry leave rice and kasundi jhal muri, and the niece, mushroom and black olive tortellini. My wife asked for the roast chicken with garlic mash, asparagus, green beans and win jus and I, the grilled fish. Mine was a Calcutta betki, which is a fish that I enjoy, and the friend’s moilee was sole. And for dessert, since we were told brie en croute would take some time, we asked for lava cake and affogato.

Crispy texture

Every dish was superb. The walnuts in the salad were crunchy, and the chicken had infused in the flavours of celery. The moilee was a bit different, and we had been told that the fish would be crumb fried. So the dish consisted of a little mound of flavoured rice with two pieces of golden fried fish on top, and some sauces on the side. The friend loved it. My fish was delicious, too. It was firm within with a crispy texture and came with a lemon-garlic butter sauce on a bed of lip-smacking buttered and mashed potatoes and topped with micro greens (from the window sill!). I squeezed a piece of lemon over it, and it was like nirvana.

The mushroom and black olive tortellini was nice and rich, and had a sauce prepared with basil cream and brown butter and flavoured with sage and toasted pine nuts. I had a bit of the chicken (with garlic mash, asparagus, green beans and win jus) – and thought it was amazing. It had a crispy skin, while the flesh was juicy and tender. We ended our meal with a rich lava chocolate cake served with vanilla ice cream, and the affogato, a nice mix of bitter and sweet tastes.

This is a place that is known for its food – its Salmon Gravalax (salmon cured with salt, sugar and dill), pulled chicken tacos with tomato chutney and pickled onions, duck ragout tagliatelle and black pepper salmon. But I know what I am going to go back for once pigs and I resume our happy relationship (happy for me, that is, alas not so happy for the poor pigs). I will have their biscuits and gravy – buttermilk biscuits, pork sausages, sage and bacon gravy.

I am counting the days. 10, 9, 8...

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Printable version | Mar 29, 2020 12:32:29 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/from-the-grannys-kitchen/article25806704.ece

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