The jhal muri or spicy puffed rice that has ruled the streets of Kolkata for decades has become synonymous with one man in the city. Meet Nikhil Haldar, the jhal muri seller, who sits with his small paraphernalia in a corner of the busy Jagadamba Junction every evening. Since the late 1980s, Haldar has been making this delicious snack, which he serves in characteristic cones and in small newspaper bags. . His jhal muri has become so popular that most tourists from Bengal have added his place to their to-do list when they visit. Amidst the cacophony of the traffic in Jagadamba Junction, Haldar’s small makeshift stall is easy to miss. But his customers know where to find him. Rain or shine, Haldar is there with his compact setup in front of the Ganesha temple, beside Chandana Brothers Shopping Mall.
Even though the city streets have plenty of muri mixture sellers, Haldar’s jhal muri stands out for its unique flavour.
The jhal muri is a modified version of the bhel or muri mixture, but made quite differently. Since the ingredients are kept premixed, it is easy to ask for your own version. Everyone has their own special requests — less potato, more spices, less chana, more chilli, and so on. “I make the mix according to the preference of the customer,” says Haldar.
Watching him toss and turn the puffed rice with the masalas in mustard oil in a steel container can be fascinating. “You can’t be too slow at it. The speed matters. A little extra time taken can make the snack soggy and that ruins the real essence of jhal muri ,” says 55-year-old Haldar, who is popularly known as murriwala in the neighbourhood. “The chana chur (the mixture of spice) should not be so spicy that it overpowers everything else,” he adds. The customers wait patiently around him for their turn.
Hailing from Hooghly, he came to the city in the 1980s along with his brother in search of livelihood. “I used to sell coffee in Durgapur earlier. But Visakhapatnam gave me a source of income and I came to be known for Kolkata’s famous jhal muri ,” he adds. Back in 1988, Haldar used to sell a jhal muri cone for ₹2.
“In those days, this used to be the city centre and many people would come down to taste the jhal muri . The roads at this junction were narrow and there was just one shopping mall where the whole city would shop. Now the place has become overcrowded and there is hardly any space for makeshift stalls like ours,” says Haldar.
A well-made serving of jhal muri , peppered with pungent mustard oil, can be heavenly. The mustard oil adds a distinct zing. Haldar’s jhal muri has just the right mix of spices and crunchiness to make it a perfect snack.
From the past three decades, every Durga Puja, he sets up his stall at the Waltair Kali Bari. While the festive month brings him some additional source of income, he also gets occasional bookings for private parties and events hosted by the Marwari community in the city. “The Marwari families have been my regular customers. Many of them have their roots in Kolkata, so they really appreciate the jhal muri ,” he adds. Haldar is there at Jagadamba Junction from 5 pm to 10 pm every day.
Through the day he sits and makes the newspaper bags. “Nobody makes these newspaper bags in the city. It is a time consuming affair,” he says. On a good day, he sells nearly 2,000 bags of jhal muri .
But the monthly income is hardly enough to etch out a decent living for Haldar and his family. The growing rentals for a small space where he lives with his wife and two daughters and their cost of education, make him worry. “My elder daughter is studying B.Sc and is very much interested in studies. My dream is to see both my daughters study well and have a decent career. Till then I will keep working here. But one day, I want to head back home to my parents and spend the twilight years of life in my house in Hooghly,” says Haldar.
( To contact him, 9642983477)
