Gridlock is normal in Jakarta, and as it’s the last leg of a long trip, I’m in no mood to stray too far from my hotel in Thamrin. I’m, however, eager to try the cocktails, which I’ve heard uses local ingredients — from snake fruit and torch ginger to pandan. Tariq Widarso (@Sip_Sensei on Instagram) is my guide in the Indonesian capital, and has given me a handy list.
D.Classic, Kebayoran Baru
My first stop is this Ginza-style speakeasy, on the first floor of Lan Na Thai, a Thai restaurant. The Japanese connection is courtesy the owner whom the bar is named after, Daiki Kanetaka, and head bartender Nakashima San, who stands sphinx-like in the centre. The outpost in Jakarta is a branch of D.Bespoke, which can be found in Singapore and Beijing.
Understated elegance is the keynote, with a long bar counter with plush leather seating, and soft jazz. There’s no bar menu — you can either order their barrel-aged classic cocktails (Rusty Nail, Manhattan and Godfather) or specify a base and flavour profile to Nakashima San. I choose a Manhattan and my friend, a Rusty Nail.
My classic whisky cocktail is strong, with some oakiness from the time spent in the barrel. It’s served straight up in an exquisite cocktail glass, one of the many hallmarks I’ve come to expect from a classic Japanese bar. The Rusty Nail is served in an Old-Fashioned glass, with a single crystal-clear cuboid of ice. The flavour is spot on, with the Drambuie not overpowering the whisky. You can also try gins from the barrels behind the counter. The cocktails are flat ₹1,500 (though, elsewhere, it’s between ₹600 and ₹1,000).
Kaum, Menteng
My next bar is a short walk away. An Indonesian restaurant from the Potato Head Group, the eponymous bar’s first two outlets opened in Hong Kong and Bali (Indonesia’s top-ranked in Asia’s 50 best bar list), and prior to the Jakarta opening, the team travelled across the country to learn about the culinary customs of different communities, appropriate as Kaum also means ‘tribe’ or ‘clan’.
A massive room with a bar at one end and an open kitchen at the other, their cocktail menu has classics as well as a set of signatures inspired by the different regions. My first drink is a Kaum Highball, which expertly blends Bourbon, salak- (snake fruit) infused arak , spiced sugar syrup, chilled jasmine tea, bitters and a splash of ginger beer.
I go by my server’s recommendation for my next cocktail, the Kecombrang Martini, made with lemon grass-infused gin, citrus liqueur and torch ginger (an edible tropical flower bud with a grassy fragrance, citrus notes and a hint of pepper). It is served with a snack of crackers and a spicy sambal — you take a bite of the cracker, then the sambal and then a sip of the drink, the overall effect a concerted assault on the senses, but in a good way.
Nautilus Bar, West Kuningan
Tariq Widarso accompanies me to my next two stops. A high school history teacher, Widarso’s love for cocktails began with the first well-made cocktail he had, while in college in America. His exploration since, coupled with his love for photography, culminated in his Instagram handle.
Sunda Kelapa is the name of the old port of Jakarta, from where, in the 16th century, the Dutch domination of Indonesia began. The design and cocktails at the Nautilus Bar, in the Four Seasons, is inspired by this, with a hand-drawn scene behind the bar visualising the same. The bar menu is divided into four parts, each named and linked with a spice: Nutmeg ( pala ), Clove ( cengkeh ), Galangal ( lengkuas ) and Lemongrass ( serai ).
Indonesians have a sweet but strong palate. My first drink is an Old Fashioned ‘smoking’, the whisky replaced by nutmeg-infused dark Caribbean rum, Port and nutmeg tincture. The sweetness, I find, is well balanced by the spice of the nutmeg. My second pick is from the Galangal menu; the Puppet Theatre with galangal-infused vodka, galangal syrup and fresh pineapple.
Loewy, Mega Kuningan
Asia’s 50 Best Bars is a coveted list, and Jakarta has two bars on it, both part of the Union Group, one of Indonesia’s largest restaurant and bar operators. Loewy is the higher ranked, at # 39. A lovely bar with expansive seating, it’s been around for 10 years. My first drink is a Klepon Colada, which uses jackfruit sous vide rum, pandan milk and coconut. Klepon, a Javanese snack (green coloured balls of rice filled with liquid), lends its colour to the cocktail. I follow it up with an Orchid Martini (gin, elderflower liqueur, violet foam and fresh lemon juice), served in a coupette glass. It has a citrusy aroma, the texture of a sour, and a ‘violetty’ taste. My last is a Pandan Old Fashioned, with a nutty flavour. I understand through conversations that cocktails are still largely considered a woman’s drink in Indonesia, and tend to be sweeter on the palate.
Henshin, Karet Kuningan
I want to end my trip on a high, and the open-air bar on the 67th floor of the Westin is the perfect choice. The atmospherics are mesmerising, with fabulous 360-degree views, and cocktails with Japanese themes, bringing me full circle.
A series that tracks the best of South East Asia’s ever-changing bar scene. The writer is co-founder and CEO of Tulleeho, a drinks training and consulting firm .
