In the sweet tradition

Featuring three mithai makers who stick to traditional recipes for that one special sweet

October 16, 2018 05:27 pm | Updated 05:27 pm IST

Delicious melt-in-the-mouth gulab jamuns

Delicious melt-in-the-mouth gulab jamuns

Come festival season in India and the sweet shops go into a palagaram- making frenzy offering sweets of all kinds. While it is exciting to see the array of new sweets,we often crave for the kind that were made at home in earlier times. Away from the bustle of the city’s busy streets, we came across some special shops whose expertise lies in making one special sweet without deviating from the original recipe. With the fame of their kaivannam having spread through word of mouth, the freshly made goodies are sold out everyday. We bring you three such mithai makers.

Saifuddin of Bhurani Sweets

Saifuddin of Bhurani Sweets

Burhani Sweets

Where: 23,Rajagopal Layout, Bharathi Colony, Peelamedu

Contact: 8015226442

0422-4306900

The visiting card reads, ‘Specialist in gulab jamun’. A few weeks ago, I remembered ordering an amazingly delicious gulab jamun from a small shop in Bharathi Colony. I wasn’t sure if I would find the shop now and ventured into the area rather hesitantly.

But it was quite clear that people there were quite familiar with Burhani Sweets.

Saifuddin is the owner and the man behind these melt-in-the-mouth gulab jamuns. He begins working on shaping and frying the balls of dough around mid-morning with the help of two assistants.

At that time of day he’s focused on the job in hand and will not stop to chat. The gulab jamuns are ready for sale around noon and shuts shop between 2.30 and 5.00 pm. From then to 9.30 pm the shop is open and you will find Saifuddin,with his feet folded up in the chair, reading the news and waiting for customers.

He breaks into a smile when asked about the secret behind his delectable sweet. Ever since he began making sweets 28 years ago, he says, he doesn’t scrimp on the quality of his ingredients and has never deviated from the recipe taught to him by his uncle.

His old-world hospitality is endearing, as he quickly fetches a generous serving on a palm fibre plate. He pulls apart a gulab jamun to reveal the soft interior. There’s no cardamom added; it’s all in the sweet sugar syrup and the amazing texture, which makes it difficult to stop with one.

He’s keen to pass on his sweet-making skills to anyone interested in learning, as none of his three sons want to do so.

Geetha who makes the pal ada pradhaman at Priya Palada Pradhaman

Geetha who makes the pal ada pradhaman at Priya Palada Pradhaman

Priya Palada Pradhaman

Where: 153/2 Chinnaswamy Naidu Road, Near Sri Ayyappa Temple, New Siddhapudur

Contact: 9626162550

We’re a family who loves our payasam, especially the Kerala ada pradhaman. Steamed rice flakes cooked in milk on a slow flame until the colour changes from a milky white to a rich cream is among the most decadent of Indian payasams. A few months ago I was told about the sumptuous pal ada pradhaman sold near the Ayyappan temple at New Sidhapudur. The owner is Moidu who started this shop 20 years ago only to make the pal ada pradhaman. Today, the person in charge of the small shop is Geetha who has been making this payasam for the past eight years. A large brass urli sits on a slow flame at the entrance. A counter shields it from the dusty street and the payasam is kept covered.

The ongoing construction work has seen a decline in both the traffic and the sales on all the shops, says Geetha. Earlier they sold around 90 litres of payasam a day; today, she says, it’s down to 12-15 litres. They get bulk orders on special occasions and festivals and are looking forward to more customers once the road is opened. The payasam is thick and delicious but make sure you visit the store only after noon as that is when the sweet is ready.

Padmavathi who makes South Indian jalebis

Padmavathi who makes South Indian jalebis

Baby Sweets

Where: 5/7c Pappampatti Pirivu, Popular Garden (next to Tirupathi Arisi Mandi), Off Trichy Road

Contact: 9994486690 (Only text messages)

“Everyone refers to me as ‘Baby’,” says Padmavathi who sells jalebis from her home in Pappampatti Pirivu. She has been in this trade for over 25 years and cooks on an open firewood stove. It was fascinating to watch her quick strokes, as the dough was squeezed out in twists and turns to make that unique shape.

Her day starts early and she has three helpers to help her make the daily requirement. Satisfied customers talk about the consistency in taste of the jalebis over years. Padmavathi says that she is never away from cooking and supervising and that is how she has earned a reputation for quality. People usually buy directly from her or place a large order a few days ahead. She confesses to not answering her phone because of lack of time and prefers that people contact her by way of text messages.

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