Familiar, yet exotic

Head here for vegetarian comfort food in a variety of imaginative iterations

August 23, 2018 04:39 pm | Updated 04:40 pm IST

Nostalgia is always fun (except for the cynic who insists that nostalgia is a memory for a past that never was). So it was unbridled joy that we headed off to Housefull on Railway Parallel Road.

There is a sewing machine, a psychedelic scooter with side-car (reminiscent of Sholay though Jai and Veeru might balk at riding it) and glowering over everyone a huge picture of Amitabh Bachchan from Deewar . That the image is made up of cassettes was even more fun.

The vegetarian restaurant positions itself as a fun choice between the business-like darshini and the more serious fine dine options. Housefull takes its something-for-everyone promise to heart offering Indian, Italian, American, Asian and Jain cuisines including thepla tacos, Manchurian burgers, spinach and cheese momos and paneer butter masala pie (I kid you not). Nowadays starters seem to be serious business and we get right down to it. There is pav bhaji with tiny, little pav-lets in a sea of spicy tangy bhaji. The street food upgrade continues with HF samosa, which are elegant, crisp triangles stuffed with potatoes, jalapenos and cheese served with kasaundi relish. The spaghetti cheese ball is just that — a fried ball of spaghetti and cheese.

Remember cheeselings? The classic snack tangos with bhel toppings to create an interesting mix of textures and flavours. You really cannot escape paneer in a vegetarian restaurant and the achari paneer tikka delivers what is promised in the name — tart and crisp.

When chef Shaikh Istekhar comes to ask if he can send the main course, we look with glazed eyes but then soldier on nevertheless. The dal — makhani (black dal and rajma) and fry are both a velveteen play of flavours and the two forkfuls of biryani I tried sang of earth and light.

I always make space for dessert and was glad I did. The gulab jamoon mousse, a delightful checker-board of chocolate and rabri, was to die for. The fresh tender coconut ice cream struck a nice balance bringing an end to a fun trip down memory lane seasoned with all manner of tasty comestibles.

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