Food Spot | Food

Each dish at this Khan Market cafe is “superb”

If you want Indian cuisine as well as Continental under one roof then head to the newly opened Foxtrot

Once in a while you have a meal that leaves you with a silly smile on your face. I had one such experience the other day. A dear friend and her daughter (our much loved niece — henceforth referred to as OMLN) said they wanted to take us out for lunch. They suggested a few places where they like the food, but I wanted to try out a new restaurant. There was one in Khan Market which had some interesting east European dishes on the menu. So we decided to meet there.

We went, we saw, we left. The place was dark, the servers were new and knew little about what was on the menu, and the chef seemed equally at sea. So we quietly left without ordering and went looking for a restaurant called Foxtrot.

As it happened, on my way to the restaurant which shall not be named (though, to be fair, OMLN said she’d had a very nice meal of Dal Makhni and veggie stuff there some weeks ago), I bumped into chef Agnibh Mudi, who had delighted us with his superb creations at The Perch, another Khan Market restaurant, several months ago. He was now at Foxtrot, he told us. So, after emerging from the dark eatery, we quickly made a beeline for Foxtrot, which was just a few buildings away.

Foxtrot is a newish restaurant, situated in the middle lane (if you turn into the lane from the bookstore Bahrisons, turn left and it will be on your left). We went up a flight and found — to our delight — the restaurant was well lit, with natural light filtering in through the windows, too. Chef Agnibh (and the other cheerful employees) helped us navigate the menu. OMLN wanted pasta, but nothing too heavy (so Pasta Linguine with Cherry Tomato and Basil for her), the friend wanted something different (Smashed Galouti Biryani for her), my wife wanted something porky and sharp (so Crumbled Sausage Flat Bread with Peri Peri Sauce with Jalapeno and Olive for her) and I was ready to cross some health barriers (Tenderloin Steak with Pommes Dauphine for me).

For starters, we asked for a salad: warm goat cheese with walnuts and honey mustard dressing, and lots of rocket leaves. And the chef sent to the table a plate of their signature kulchas — some stuffed with bacon and cheddar cheese, some with beetroot, and served with a curd dip, crumbled roasted papad, tomato chutney and so on.

A meal for four should cost between ₹2,700-₹3000, including service charge.

This doesn’t happen very often, but each dish was superb. The salad was outstanding, with caramelised walnuts and fresh rocket leaves, small grapes and cherry tomatoes, all tossed in a light dressing. The kulchas were delicious, too — soft, yet crispy, with just the right kind of stuffing and dips. Our entrees were all perfect. OMLN enjoyed the pasta, which she said had a nice texture, and a light touch. I had some of the crumbled sausage flatbread, and loved it. It was like a very nice, thin pizza, but wonderfully crunchy and full of all of the good stuff. The friend enjoyed her biryani: the galouti came well merged with the fragrant rice’

I loved the tenderloin (buffalo meat), cooked just so, with the sauce on the side, a mashed and crispy potato chunk and lots of flavourful green veggies: asparagus, broccoli, snow peas. The meat was tender, and I actually liked it even without the sauce. The chef told us that the ingredients all come from specialized places, the greens and micro-greens from a farm on the outskirts, the ribs from Bengaluru.

Our meal was, in a word, outstanding. We were happy that fate (bumping into the chef, finding the other place inadequate) did its bit for us. The silly smile is still on my face.

The writer is a seasoned food critic

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Printable version | Feb 19, 2020 11:05:54 PM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/each-dish-at-this-khan-market-cafe-is-superb/article29798009.ece

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