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Countless flavours of good old kulfi

Simply irresistible: Fruit-based kulfi is one of the highlights of Kuremal’s Kulfi

Simply irresistible: Fruit-based kulfi is one of the highlights of Kuremal’s Kulfi  

Check out the traditional ice cream as Kuremal Mohanlal of Old Delhi has now got another address

My friends are not just my heart, but my ears and eyes as well. The other day, a close friend passed on some news that cheered me up no end; my favourite kulfi-makers from Old Delhi were opening an outlet in central Delhi. He had seen a sign in Bengali Market and tipped me off.

Kuremal Mohanlal in Kucha Pati Ram off Bazaar Sitaram has been an old, old favourite of mine. The family has been in the kulfi-making business since 1906. Their kulfis are soft and creamy and come in various kinds of flavours and deliciously wrapped in fruits.

Success story

The shop now has an outlet in Bengali market, which is run by the old patriarch’s grandson, Vishal Sharma. It’s called Kuremal’s Kulfi, and you can’t miss it – for the board has been prominently placed.

The family is among the few from the old city to have expanded to New Delhi. The first to do so was Karim’s, which, after its great success in Matia Mahal in the Jama Masjid area, set up its first branch in Nizamuddin, and then outlets in various other parts of Delhi.

The greatest success story is of Giani’s, which used to a popular haunt of ours. Giani was a small counter on Church Mission Road where you got the most delicious rabri falooda. It also had a chholey bhaturey shop at the back. Now you have Giani’s everywhere in Delhi. When they first opened shop in south Delhi, some of my friends thought it was a new Italian chain.

Sugar-free options

Now I am happy to see that Kuremal has opened a branch in central Delhi. It sells all kinds of kulfis, and at varying rates. The kesar pista rabri, plain cream, fruit cream, paan and gulab kulfis are for ₹90 each; the special kulfi - kulhar kulfi, sugar free rabri, sugar free cream – for ₹105.

Then they sell rabri falooda and kesar pista falooda for ₹110. Almond kulfi and pista kulfi are for ₹200. And kulfi stuffed in fruits such as mangos, pomegranate, orange and apple are for ₹250.

Young Vishal explained the kulfis to me, telling me how they differed. I asked for the regular kesar kulfi – which I love – and a kulfi that I had not eaten before – fruit cream kulfi. Fruit cream – a dessert that consists of dollops of cream with pieces of fruit in it – used be such a favourite of mine when I was a young lad that I used to attend weddings (sometimes uninvited) only because this dish often figured on the menu. Then I asked for a new kind of kulfi that they sell – called fruit-based kulfi (₹ 80).

Fruit-based kulfi is essentially a sorbet – a delightful mix of sugar and fruit pulp, but no milk or cream. They have on offer kulfis flavoured with pomegranate, orange and mint. There is also jamun and falsa, a small sweet-and-tart berry that you find only for a few weeks in the summer months. They also have masala kulfi, and aam panna kulfi.

Creamy milk kulfi

Countless flavours of good old kulfi

I loved the milk-based kulfis and the fruit-based ones. The aam panna was nice and spicy, and the faalsa one was a lip-smacking mix of flavours. The milk kulfis were as delectable as always – creamy and firm yet soft. I enjoyed the fruit cream kulfi immensely – it did remind me of all the weddings I gate-crashed.

A cousin from Allahabad was at home for dinner the day I took home the kulfis. He tasted them all and in between spoonfuls, kept saying, “Delicious, delicious”.

He even sent me some pictures on WhatsApp. The caption – no surprises there - said, “Delicious”.

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Printable version | Apr 9, 2020 9:57:13 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/countless-flavours-of-good-old-kulfi/article25641792.ece

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