There’s more than one good reason to book yourselves a table at the Assamese Food Festival hosted by That’s Y Food. My main reason was curiosity. Assam, and the Northeast, has been a region I’ve wanted to explore. If I could at least get a taste of Assam, even a small slice of the North-East, while sitting in a restaurant miles and miles away, I knew it was a chance not to be missed. And I am glad I didn't.
The organisers smartly made it simple for the unaccustomed diner by serving the food as a thali — vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Looking forward to tasting Assamese-style fish, I chose the latter.
The appetisers were a gentle and pleasant way to tantalise the taste buds. The minced lamb cutlets were exact in their crispiness. The bamboo shoot chutney, served as an accompaniment, has to be specially mentioned. Mild and not heavily on the stomach, the first course had me anticipating the rest happily.
The non-vegetarian thali
What pleased me the most about the thali was that the lentils and vegetables stood just as proud and strong as the fish and chicken. Mahor Dali instantly made me feel like I was eating in one’s own home in Assam. Mildly tempered with spices and mustard oil, these lentils were unfussy, and went superbly with the fluffed-up hot poori as well as the sticky white rice.
Paleng saax aru boot Dali, a spinach and Bengal gram preparation was yet another reminder of ghar ka khana . Fresh and light, there can be no better way to serving greens. The fish did not disappoint. It was fried just right to be able to retain the softness of the tender bhetki.
Despite being a generously served meal, I was left feeling content yet not bursting at the seams. A rare occurrence after gorging on a thali.
Pani Pitha Narikol Diya, Black rice kheer, and Til Pitha
A happy state too, as I was very keen on the dessert. The stand out in this final course was the Pani Pitha Narikol Diya, a delightful rice crepe stuffed with grated coconut and served with jaggery sauce.
Another reason to occupy a table at That’s Y Food this week.
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A vegetarian in Assam
It is the bhut jolokia I want to meet, and Chef Kashmiri Barkakati Nath asks for them from the kitchen. They are gorgeous looking chillies, red and glossy and I know they are among the hottest chillies in the world. “But our cuisine is not just about that,” she smiles. And indeed it is not, as the vegetarian starters arrive. We are served the Koldil croquettes (made of banana flowers).
Green peas chutney
The stand out for me is the fresh green peas chutney that sends a nice punch up my nose with its ground mustard and mustard oil. Luci Aloo Bhaji Aru Ambol, the other starter, is actually tiny puris served with baby potatoes (called badami alu) and a tomato chutney. Speaking of chutneys there is a delicious pineapple one with just the hint of the bhut jolokia I want the recipe of!
The food uses all native vegetables as we know them. Even the potatoes are grown only in Assam, the chef says. The greens, the banana flower, pumpkin, brinjal are indigenous as is the bhit jolokia. A big plus point — there is not a shred of paneer in sight. There is also none of the ginger-garlic-onion gravy one invariably encounters. The dal, the spinach, the simple steamed rice, the heart-warming rangalou tarkari (a red pumpkin mash), and a dal dumpling swimming in a tangy gravy are unfussy and elegant. The flavours of vegetables and the few spices used stand out.
The dessert reminds me of the pithas I have had in Kolkata and the not-too-sweet black sesame biscuit-like accompaniment to the sticky rice kheer is the perfect way to finish off the lunch. It is called til pitha and I want more.
Info you can use
The Assam Feast is on for both lunch and dinner at That’s Why Food, TV Samy Road (East), RS Puram, until May 13
A vegetarian thali costs ₹650 and a non-vegetarian one ₹750
Call 04224365118 for reservations
Green peas chutney
Ingredients
100 gm of shelled peas
2 tbsp lime juice
2-3 Green chillies
2 tbsp mustard oil
Salt to taste
Method: Blanch the green peas in boiling water. Drain and immediately put into cold water to retain colour. Put the peas along with all the other ingredients into a blender. Whiz for a minute until it blended but not too smooth. Stir in the mustard oil and it’s ready to be served with kababs or used as a spread on your sandwiches.
