There is no denying the fact that we all love our zesty ‘hari’ aka green chutney with quick snacks like pakoras or delightful tikkas and kebabs. This accompaniment is a must have on our plates when our palate craves for piquant flavours. It has a western counterpart too which goes by the name of ketchup and its rating on the popularity chart can’t be challenged, either. To argue that both these accompaniments are addictive would be stating the obvious, but what most of us have failed to notice or even accept is the fact that their strong flavours hijack the distinctive taste of the dish they are served with.
Executive sous chef Anuj Wadhawan, The Roseate Hotel & Resort, was very much familiar with the overpowering tendencies of the green chutney. So when he and his team members were entrusted with the job to design the menu of their newly-launched restaurant, Kheer the Delhi-born chef was sure about one thing — to replace the ubiquitous chutney with flavoursome and experimental variants. And, this he has done cleverly by going back to the roots and reinterpreting Indian cuisines and ingredients. The familiar is served with an interesting surprise and traditional is given a contemporary twist. This is what Kheer in Aerocity is all about.
Nuggets of information
We received many such nuggets of information, a chance to taste signature and classical dishes from their small yet dynamic menu and experience vibrant and chic interior when we visited them on a recent Saturday. The fine dining restaurant has been designed by Tokyo-based designer Noriyoshi Muramatsu, but staying true to its theme, the décor — starting from brass metal bells hanging from the ceiling to glass jars filled with Indian spices decorating an entire wall above the open kitchen — is every bit Indian.
We began our food journey with Bhaaji, simple onion rings with spice dust. They are served with green chutney, but unlike the traditional coriander, mint and chillies combo which is quite overwhelming on the palate, their version is made of sprint onions.
Coming back to rings, it is their lightness that makes them a good starter. This was followed by Machhalee which basically is a combination of raw tuna, chopped onions, and tomatoes, a little bit of ginger and mustard oil. When we had read the dish on the menu, it sounded just plain simple, but what was served on the plate and what we tasted highlighted how innovation drives the restaurant's snack section. Drawing sweetness from tomatoes, tartness from onions and juiciness from fresh tuna, this dish was a winner for us.
Then we headed to the tandoor section and fixed our gaze straight onto Tandoori Murg.
We were curious, wanting to see, how different it would be. And, we indeed were surprised. The flavoursome chicken marinated in yogurt was served with lemon hung curd and the combination was heavenly. However, we wished there was more sauce on the plate for us to savour as without it the chicken tasted a bit dry. But, all our complaints vanished into thin air when we were served Chukandar Chilgoze ki Tikki with a sauce made from vinegar, mustard, and beetroot. First, it was the beautiful reddish ting of the dish that we were sold to and once we savoured our first bite, we knew we had lost our heart to it. The sweetness of the beetroot, the crunchiness of pine nuts and the sourness from the chutney, the textures just melted and flavours exploded on our palate. It is a cracker of a dish. A must try.
We also loved the succulent Barra Kebab served with tomato and garlic chutney, and Gucchi — morel stuffed with wild mushrooms. The khoya and cheddar cheese stuffing just melted in the mouth. By the time main course reached us, we were already full. Hence, we couldn’t try out many dishes from the main course that were served. We enjoyed Malabar Prawns since we are a sucker for seafood and the Yellow Dal. However, Nadru Palak, the reinterpretation of traditional Kashmiri savoury, disappointed us. Last, but not the least, do try their breads, they really have an interesting and delectable selection.
It would have been slightly unfair if we hadn’t tried out their desserts. Hence, we had to make slight room for them. We dug into the ‘Kheer tasting platter’ comprising bottle guard, tapioca, and jaggery pudding. Sweet, light and delicious, they reminded us of home. But, what brought a smile to our faces wasPaan Rossomalai. If given a chance, we would drive up any distance to relish it again. Says it all, isn’t.
