If there’s one thing that the Réunionese are proud of, it’s their pineapples. “They are world-renowned,” says Chef Jean-Claude Cléret, gesturing to a bottle of pineapple and vanilla-flavoured rum on the table. A native of the French region of Réunion Island, the celebrity chef (who appears on a French TV adaptation of MasterChef) with fellow islander Chef Jean-Michel Dijoux, is in Chennai for a food festival at Crowne Plaza.
Organised by the Indo-French Chamber of Commerce and Industry (IFCCI), along with the Reunion Island Tourism Board, the event aims to showcase the rich cuisine and culture of the island. “Everyone on the island is of mixed heritage. There’s a little bit of European, African, Chinese and Indian influences on everything, including our cuisine,” says Cléret in French, which is quickly translated by William Techer, head of marketing and promotion of the Tourism Department.
Merlin Sarah Simon, regional director – southern chapter, explains further, “There is a large Indian diaspora of Tamil origin in Reunion. They still follow the traditions and rituals even if they hardly have an idea of what they mean. When it comes to the food, there is a heavy Indian influence, with the way they use tomato, onion, garlic, turmeric and other spices.” In spite of these similarities, the Reunionese remain insulated and seem to be unaware of just how much we have in common. Executive chef of Crowne Plaza, R. Deva Kumar, recounts with a laugh that the visiting chefs asked if ginger and saffron are readily available or if they should bring some over.
While the food festival itself will be in the form of a buffet, accompanied by a six-piece band from the islands, we start our sampling with a comforting bowl of Soupe de citrouille au massalé et lait de coco. That’s pumpkin and coconut milk soup with masala and kaffir lime, and it’s topped with parmesan foam. The ginger and kaffir lime’s earthy and citrus notes combine to give a flavour that’s reminiscent of lemongrass in Thai curries.
The entree is Carry de camaron au combava et Riz légumes safrané — tiger prawns with Reunion curry, kaffir lime and vegetable saffron rice. To be honest, this would fit right in on an Indian menu. The subtly-spiced rice is the perfect foil for the prawn curry, and it’s topped with a legume dish that can only be described as poriyal. As a plate of pineapple carpaccio doused in a spiced sugar syrup and topped with a quenelle of vanilla ice cream is served, Cleret says, again, “Best pineapples in the world. I hope you enjoy.” It is an enjoyable experience, as kaffir lime makes yet another appearance. But a dash of the fragrant pineapple and vanilla rum takes it to another level, a heady one at that.
The Reunion Island food festival buffet is open for dinner till February 9 at Crowne Plaza Chennai Adyar Park. It is priced at Rs. 1789 inclusive of all taxes.
