‘V rat ka Khana’ promises to be an adventure from the word go. This is a no rice, no wheat, no lentils, no onions, no garlic affair. Imagine! Curiosity is rightly piqued. North Indians have an entire culinary tradition around fasting and ‘Vrat ka Khana’ at Elements explores this dietary aspect of Navaratri.
There are fasting rules, there is a list of no-no foods - while non-vegetarian is a strict no, some opt for an only fruits diet, while others go the no gluten way or eat only roots, still others give up salt - in short there are many ways of fasting.
Fasting food can be fun, one learns. The thali has nine dishes, symbolising the nine nights or a tribute to the nine forms of the Goddess. Each day the combination of dishes changes, says Santosh Mulapalli of the restaurant. This is the second edition of the festival and he says the response last year was encouraging enough to have it this year as well.
Actually, even if you are not fasting it is worth a shot just as a chance to sample a different kind of food. What are the chances of us Malayalis eating makhaane ki kheer or singhade ke puri or kutte ke parathe? Makhana is lotus seed, kuttu is buckwheat and singhada is water chestnut - a staple fasting food for North Indians.
Sabudana papad and aloo papad are the thali’s starters - one extremely bland and the other extremely, cough-inducingly spicy. Both tasty. Either wash it down with the lassi that also accompanies the thali or anar (pomegranate) raita which serves as a smooth, crunchy dip.
Dahi aloo, ajawaini arbi, paneer makhni, anar raita and makhane ka kheer give company to the above mentioned. Those with a passing knowledge of cooking would understand the challenge of cooking without onion, often the crutch of amateurs. Garlic too has its uses.
Paneer makhani without the two is buttery and delicious, it peps up the mild, yet distinctly-flavoured poori and roti. If tangy is your thing, then dahi aloo it is. The sourness comes from the curd, in the absence of onion nor garlic it gives body to the gravy and since the rest of the food is mild it adds that missing zing.
Ajwaini aloo is fried potatoes seasoned with ajwain (caraway), is considered good for the digestive system.
Accompanying the dishes are singhade ke puri, kutte ke parathe and samak ke chawal (barnyard millet) aka vrat ke chawal. Don’t be misled by the chawal (rice) in the name it is a kind of rice-like millet, creamy white and mildly fragrant.
The curries will change but the puri, roti and rice will be constant, you will even get repeats of these assures Santosh. The roots in the menu will also include yam and similar tubers, banana flower cutlets and such.
The piece de resistance is makhaane ki kheer made of lotus seed, a popcorn-like nut. It is had, roasted, like popcorn and added to vegetable/paneer dishes too. What a treat! Creamy and thick topped with almond shavings and pistachio - it is highly recommended.
Vrat ka khaana is open for lunch and dinner till October 9 and is priced at Rs.375 plus taxes.
(For reservations - 0484 4066977)
