Sri Krishna Bhavan Hotel,
Sri Krishna Gana Sabha
B reakfast here begins at 7. From crisp and golden ghee roast to steaming idli, this seems to be a favourite destination for those in T. Nagar. Margazhi or not, there are regulars who come here for delicious ammini kozhukattai and morkali . It is the home-like ambience here that draws astrologer Rammohan and his wife Sridevi to this place. “The food is healthy, with less oil and spice. We come during odd hours, when the concert is on. It is not so crowded then. You must try their kozhukattais before you leave.”
Memories of the hot, round kozhukattais my grandmother made during monsoon evenings in Kerala stream into my mind. The ammini kozhukattais are tiny dumplings of steamed rice flour served with coconut gratings and mustard, and taste perfect with the coconut chutney.
But, the gem here is morkali , made of buttermilk and rice flour. Writer Gayatri Natarajan is a regular. “It is a traditional dish that takes a lot of effort. You have to keep stirring it to avoid lumping, but it’s a near-forgotten dish now,” she says.
In the evening, the canteen bounces to life. Masala vada, bonda, bajji... you’re spoilt for choice. Says Gayatri: “The vadas are hot and crisp. You can’t resist indulging.”
The hotel also has a chaat counter that serves bhel puri and samosa chaat. And, do not forget the customary cup of coffee; it’s said to have impressed even singer K.J. Yesudas.
Venue: Maharajapuram Santhanam Salai, T. Nagar
USP: Kozhukattais, ghee appam
Time: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Tel: 4211 6066
Gn anambika Caterers
Sri Thyaga Brahma Gana Sabha,
Vani Mahal
Looking for the perfect ilai saappaadu after that mind-blowing morning concert? Head to Vani Mahal for a South Indian thali with rice, sambar and kootu. The slightly-fried yam poriyal and the carrot and cabbage side dish with coconut add the right crunch to the meal.
CHENNAI, TAMIL NADU, 16/12/2016: FOR FRIDAY PAGE: Canteens are a big draw during the December music season. The canteen at Vani Mahal in T.Nagar. Photo: M. Vedhan
Gnanambika Caterers, which worked out of Narada Gana Sabha last year, has moved here now. “We serve the saappaadu from 11.30 a.m. till snack time. We do not offer breakfast because almost all the kutcheris begin late during the day,” says Revathi Rajan of Gnanambika caterers. “You must come in the evening. That’s when the canteen will be packed,” she suggests.
True to her word, the canteen bustles with rasikas and artistes, dressed in silk saris and dhotis in the evening; it’s Sanjay Subrahmanyan’s concert. The star of the night, apart from Sanjay, is the keera vadai . Chef Nityanandam shows me how he shapes the batter and fries it in the spluttering oil. “I mix urad and chana dal in a 3:1 ratio. The greens are fresh too.”
By 5 p.m., the aroma of fried onions wafts through the place. It’s time for spicy-sweet onion pakoda. “No, we don’t use jaggery. The sweetness is from the onions,” says Nityanandam. For dinner, they have puri, served with Bombay sagu.
We round off the fare with melt-in-the-mouth carrot halwa, and amble outside humming a mellifluous raga or two.
Venue: G.N. Chetty Road
Time: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
USP: Keera vadai and ilai saappaadu
Tel: 98400 69067
Chennai Cultural Academy
Karnataka Sangha
“We rarely listen to the concerts. For us, it’s simply about the food.” I can’t help but overhear some fellow gourmands as I walk into Rama Rao Kala Mantap in T. Nagar. I’m intrigued, and, to-be-honest, quite starved. The canteen is at the entrance.
Asked about the specials, I’m told there’s huggi (a pongal-like dish with its origins in Karnataka), vazhathanduvada , and an assortment of variety rices, as well as the staple tiffin items. I order a huggi with no clue as to what it is, and the crunchy, slightly-bitter vadais make up for the calories burnt sabha hopping.
The first bite tells me I’ve hit the jackpot. Raghavendra Catering serves items that aren’t on the menus of most mainstream canteens.
“We’ve been here for more than 15 years,” says Vaidhyanathan, catering manager. It shows. With a full-service canteen serving lunch, snacks and dinner, it’s run like a well-oiled machine. “They’re known for their Karnataka specialities. Come back and try the masala dosai and bansi rava upma ,” a gentleman shares a well-kept secret. I promise to keep it to myself. After all, another visit is only a few days away, and I’m yet to try the canteen’s legendary poori-masala.
Venue: Rama Rao Kala Mantap, Habibullah Road, T. Nagar
Time: 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. (opens at 1 p.m. for lunch on holidays)
USP: Huggi, vazhathandu vadai
Tel: 2483 4823
Mudhra
Ramakrishna Mission School
It’s a short stroll to Ramakrishna Mission School in T. Nagar, and a ball goes flying over my head. A delicate tune catches my ear. Flute Shashank’s bamboo magic hasn’t diminished over years. But, I’m here for a different purpose.
“ Anna, canteen enga ?” I whisper. I’m pointed to what looks like a closet. Inside, there are containers of already-prepared food. A minute later, an elderly paati wanders in, flashes her ticket at the bouncer-like server, who heats and hands her a plate of idlis with bright green coconut chutney and a steaming cup of sambar .
“Our ticket includes food cost. The lower-priced tickets include snacks and coffee, while tiffin is served with a Rs. 500 ticket. We want our rasikas to be able to enjoy the music, and not worry about dinner, as we host only evening concerts,” says Mudhra Bhaskar, founder and co-director of Mudhra.
Sesha Catering, M. Sundarraman’s catering company based in Pammal, specialises in weddings. Yet, he makes an exception for Mudhra. “Though we serve a limited menu, we hope that our high-quality food will draw people here,” says M. Srinivasan, managing director. And with podi utthappams at Rs. 30 a piece, the orders don’t seem far away.
Sipping on a steaming cup of the best filter coffee I’ve had in a while, I move to leave. “Shashank will play for 30 more minutes. Enjoy the concert, no?” smiles Mudhra Bhaskar. The invitation is hard to decline.
Venue: Infosys Hall, Ramakrishna School, T. Nagar
Time: 3 p.m. to 8 p.m.
USP: Filter coffee, adai avial
Tel: 2826 4493
