Three years ago, Bharathi Raviprakash unveiled rings, earrings, bracelets and pendants featuring large, untreated rubies, cabochon emeralds and rutile quartz in New Delhi. She let the raw, rugged nature of each gemstone remain undisturbed, pairing them with basic gold and copper wire. And the photos that accompanied this collection curated by designers Abraham & Thakore, featured the jewellery on aged hands, neck and ears – the deep grooves and wrinkles of their 90-plus model mirroring the beautiful inclusions in the stones. I remember her telling me then how an extraordinary stone benefits more from the strong personality rather than the physical beauty of its wearer.
- From the Dali collection, the white Corian bangle with multicoloured sapphires and the ear cuff are some of my favourites
- Much as I love opera and art, now I opt for the jungles, hills and streams, with minimal time in cities
- With my studio now in Bangkok, monthly visits include a session with an acupuncturist and walks to Buddhist temples
Today, as she gives me a tour of her new Studio Tara address in Chennai’s cultural hub, Mylapore, it is evident that her audacious approach to gemstones remains; only this time, there is her connect with new-age materials, and a conscious effort to scale to meet the demands of a global audience. Her two collections, Mulino and Dali, inspired by visits in 2016 to Munich and Spain respectively, comprise about 50 pieces each. Mulino references windmills in 18 karat gold, while Dali, in black and white Corian — a solid-surface material made from an acrylic polymer — is a nod to the eccentric Spanish surrealist. The clean, sculptural lines of her latest bangles, rings and necklaces beckon with the sparkle of multicoloured sapphires, Burmese rubies, South Sea pearls and diamonds. And as she models them, it is evident that they fit the new-age aesthetic, where slow fashion and extensive travel create a unique style sensibility that is at home, both at a New York gala and an intimate gathering during Chennai’s Carnatic season.
A study in contrast
“I wanted to do a black and white line that was stark, easy to wear, and with the colours popping from the gemstones. I wanted sculptural jewellery that was durable, not too flashy. I considered ceramic and onyx but it was Corian that met my requirements,” she says, as we walk up to her office above the store. With François Arpels, her consultant on brand strategy, and the founder and managing partner of private equity fund Brands and Beyond, she is aware that to scale, one must create lines that are distinctly recognised and can be mass produced (50 pieces each at most). She reveals that Arpels will also help take her company to the global stage. “It is a huge step but I have to do it cautiously as it is a crowded market and expensive. The borders may have shrunk but the paperwork is much more,” says our ‘gem whisperer’. She will also experiment with the store within a store concept at select Indian luxury hotels.
Raviprakash, 51, knows that her concept will appeal to audiences in Singapore and Hong Kong. Quick to laughter and open to change, she says eight to12-year-olds now tell her what they want for their bespoke jewellery, and self-sufficient 20-25-year-olds buy from her. “I want the younger generation to come in. This is the same generation that is keen on responsible sourcing, and artisans being paid more. I want them to know I have always sourced ethically and that more than 80 % of the gold I use is recycled,” she says.
The world stage
Delhi-based Arpels, whose family founded the jewellery house Van Cleef & Arpels in 1906, understands the strengths of his designer. “I went through her entire jewellery history. To design one-of-a-kind pieces is one thing but a luxury brand must be timeless. It can introduce new collections every six months but they must be consistent. It is what will draw clients to the brand,” he says.
The Dali pieces play with volume and are striking, and Corian with its durable, unscratchable and sleek properties contribute to the contemporary aesthetic. “It fits in with Bharathi’s two markets, India and the West,” says Arpels. However, is India ready for Corian, the robust material often associated with countertops and furniture? “As seen at Musée d’Art Modern’s show Medusa in Paris last year, jewellery in plastic and other unconventional materials can be as expensive as a pair of solitaires and accepted. But the mindset is sometimes traditional and a lot of awareness is necessary,” admits friend and gallerist Sharan Apparao, who has collaborated with her in the past. I reach out to Rakesh Thakore of Abraham & Thakore, the duo that worked with her in 2015. “When it comes to playing with different ideas and materials, Bharathi can always take the conversation forward. And she is accessible to people of different ages,” he says. I could not agree more.
To be showcased on September 28 at the store in Mylapore. Priced from Rs 50,000 to Rs 5 lakh. Details: studiotara.com
