Every fashion week introduces us to a new wave of designers. However, considering the kind of investment required — from ₹8 to ₹10 lakh — many indie labels are opting out of the runway race. Instead, they’re looking for different ways of retailing, including social media, pop-ups and collaborations. Shahin Ansari, co-founder, MaalGaadi, says that from a business point of view, trunk shows and pop-ups make perfect sense. “It’s where the crowds are, and brands get noticed and make money. But for brands and designers looking to go national or international, fashion weeks are a great platform.”
With many coming from non-traditional fashion backgrounds, staying off the runway is a refreshing approach, says Shefalee Vasudev, editor, The Voice of Fashion . “I constantly hear the term democracy used in the same breath as fashion. This has broken down the fashion formula... even though unbridled democracy can sometimes affect originality,” she says.
A majority of labels today work with handloom and natural fabrics. Edward Lalrempuia, Fashion Director, Harper’s Bazaar, feels that the sustainable conversation is here to stay — “People want to be environmentally aware, and know where their products are coming from. But designers can move away from the organic, loose silhouettes [that have been trending]. Representing these signature looks can be tricky, especially when the labels are dependant on social media. Pernia Qureshi, founder, Pernia’s Pop-up Shop, says, “A good lookbook is key. Most indie brands use fabrics and silhouettes that are beautiful, but often don’t photograph as well as structured garments. Stylists and photographers should be mindful of this.”
But have we reached a tipping point? Malika Verma Kashyap, founder of digital publication Border & Fall , believes we are “at that apex moment where there is just too much of the same... someone is going to take a radical step and break away. So, we can look forward to innovation within handloom and embracing other types of materials. Mill-made fabrics have their own space and use, and can do things that handloom cannot.”
So what does it take to make it as an indie designer today? Vijendra Bhardwaj, former fashion director at GQ , says candidly, “A functioning left brain, an understanding of business, finance and networking. And yes, a reasonably thick skin!”
Swipe through to see the multi-designer stores, pop-ups and campaigns to identify the brands to track this year.
Badaam: For founder Priyanka Kaul, sustainable living and working are common practice, traced back to her childhood in Australia. “I believe in small production cycles, using handmade fabrics and environmentally-friendly dyes,” she says. With an abundance of natural organic handloom fabrics in the market now, she chooses to balance her clothing with a nostalgic style, instead of emphasising the textile. “I want my handwoven fabric to be a part of my offering, not the whole story,” she says. From ₹6,000 to ₹35,000 on badaam.co.
Mitesh Lodha: Lodha launched his eponymous label three years ago. Operating out of Mumbai’s Lower Parel, the brand is a blend of heritage design and modern silhouettes. His focus is also on fabric. “We’re trying to use sustainable fabrics like viscose, and are in talks with manufacturers who create fabric from recycled plastic,” he says. Their latest collection, Samyik, uses sustainable raw silk with hand-block prints. In 2018, the label collaborated with Mumbai-based Astik Brass Band for the Design Fabric Festival, creating contemporary outfits featuring bomber jackets and slim pants. Currently, he’s experimenting with embroidered tropical patterns. From ₹10,000, on Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop and Aza Fashions.
Moral Science | @moral_science: Stylist Isha Ahluwalia has used fabric like Japanese rayon from the ‘80s and shirting material gifted to her father during his wedding to create her debut collection. Apart from 80% of her Goa-based line being upcycled, she’s also about accessible fashion — check out her handkerchiefs with Braille. ₹2,500 to ₹30,000 (on Instagram).
Behno | behno.com: Founded as a social enterprise by Shivam Punjya, the handbag brand launched with Bergdorf Goodman in NYC and has since partnered with Harvey Nichols London and Bloomingdales, among others. This week, they launched a capsule collection with the National Down Syndrome Society, with 20% of all sales donated to the organisation. From ₹5,000 upwards.
Notebook: Niharika Gupta admits to being scared of bright colours. So you’ll find an ‘academic palette’ — with plenty of blues, whites, greys and terracottas — that is in keeping with her fascination with school uniforms (“they suit all body types”). What sets the minimalist Delhi designer apart are her clean silhouettes and love for pattern manipulation. “I enjoy combining two classics, like a T-shirt and a dress, or a vintage pinstripe suit and a jumpsuit,” says Gupta, 25. Working almost exclusively with fabrics used in menswear, like cotton gabardine and poplin — which give her clothes structure — she eschews trends but follows seasons. “Buyers work with a fashion calendar and since we are looking at global reach by participating at the upcoming India Fashion Week, we follow it too,” she says. Gupta, who works on consignment with stores like Ensemble and Atosa, believes exhibitions are key because they help her gain valuable insights into fits and preferences. From ₹6,500 onwards, on thenotebook studio.com.
Ode to Odd: Ranchi-based sisters Priyal Mewara (24) and Shreya Mewara (28) use handwoven biodegradable fabrics in a structured, unconventional format. “We don’t believe in seasonal collections and take time to work with our craftsmen and weavers in Bengal and Banaras. Our next collection — due in September — takes inspiration from Mughal architectural motifs,” says Priyal. In June this year, they were selected to showcase at Scouting For India, a collaboration between FAD Institute and Vogue Talents (of Vogue Italia). Available in Ogaan, Delhi and Mumbai, Kolkata and stores in London. ₹5,000 to ₹35,000 at odetoodd.com.
Oshadi: Nishanth Chopra’s Erode-based family has been in the textile business for decades, and now his creations have made it to fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, Copenhagen and London. Last year, his sustainable, eco-friendly label was paired with Stella McCartney for the Commonwealth Fashion Project, which brings together established labels with emerging talent. Silk woven by artisans in Tamil Nadu was used to make a gown which was displayed at Buckingham Palace. “Fashion weeks are a great place to do market analysis and reflect on our own work from a commercial point of view,” shares Chopra. For their most recent collection, the Oshadi team — which includes Irish designer Richard Malone, whose work has been acquired by the The Museum of Modern Art’s permanent collection — took inspiration from early menswear and post-war workwear. “There are modern fabric manipulations using age-old weaving and dyeing techniques,” he says. From ₹9,000 onwards on oshadi.in, No Borders (Mumbai) and Maiyet (London).
OTF - Only the Family | @otfisonlythefamily: Raveena Tandon is a fan of their pleated pants, and Aahana Kumra digs the culotte dungarees, but this Kolkata-based label’s embroidered jackets, with ’70s inspired artwork, is a highlight.
Pushpak Vimaan: Styling and photography are key to a designer’s success online, and Smarani Vuppala, creative head of this Pune-based brand knows as much. “When we started out, we used big-name photographers and stylists, but it really overshot our marketing budget! Now, we collaborate with young and experimental artists, sometimes on a barter system,” she says. Their sub-label, Mela, which is priced between ₹3,000 and ₹8,000 is ideal for those who have just been introduced to the brand. Pushpak Vimaan is priced upwards of ₹10,000. On Instagram @pushpak_vimaan.
Richa Khemka: This four-year-old Kolkata-based label has won a niche following for its experimental fusion pieces. “I add drapes and layering to basic garments to make it more interesting,” reveals the designer. While she has not exhibited at any fashion weeks, Khemka reaches out to most of her clients through exhibitions and pop-up events across India (most recently, Delhi, Hyderabad and Chennai) and even one in Dubai. On Instagram @richakhemkalabel.
SGBG: “'Made in India' fashion tends to be seen as derivative. But that’s changing dramatically now," says Suraj Giri, who co-founded the Chennai-based label with his mother, Bindu Giri. They're challenging these assumptions via modern design thinking, ethical production, sourcing and sustainable waste-mitigated production. If you're looking for slow fashion, each piece takes between 20 to 1,200 hours of work. The prêt range is priced between ₹3,000 and ₹90,000. Details on sgbgatelier.com.
House of Three: Sounak Sen Barat believes that sustainability means making goods that put less pressure on resources as well as the environment. The label uses khadi muls from West Bengal and silks and jacquards from Benaras. "This season, we're working with weavers from Salem and Kanchipuram," he says.From their luxury flagship store in Bengaluru, they also retail like-minded designers. The diffusion line is priced between ₹3,000 to ₹8,000, pret between ₹8,000 to ₹25,000 and couture ₹25,000 upwards.
Sikhat | sikhat.com: A finalist at Lakme Fashion Week (Winter Festive 2016), the Chennai-based brand has a mix of Indian and Bohemian plus-size apparel featuring block prints, natural dyes and organic fabrics. Their upcoming collection, Vativamaippu (design in Tamil), is based on kolam art.
Sonam Parmar Jhawar | Instagram: @so_sonamparmarjhawar : Florals are a favourite for this Pune-based designer whose pre-draped saris even come with customised fanny packs. Her Spring Summer 19 collection, Bloom, includes flowy sundresses.
Soutache: With many designers highlighting handloom as their USP, Gaurika Sharma wanted to make sure that there was something to set her designs apart. “We settled on hand-embroidery, and the vintage florals are quite popular,” she says. While some designers are hesitant to shell out the money needed to show at a fashion week, or even hold a stall, Sharma insists it is worth the investment. “We’ve had stalls for the past two years, have shown at Vancouver Fashion Week this year, and will be on the runway at India Fashion Week. It’s what helped us take the brand international, and opened up options for exporting and the wholesale market,” she says, adding that they retail in 16 stores across the country now. From ₹ 4,000 upwards; details on soutache.in.
Bhavya Ramesh | bhavyaramesh.com: This Bengaluru-based ‘bohemian collective’ services ‘gypsy souls and free spirits’, with signature pieces like bug-shaped rings and sterling silver-framed sunglasses. ₹600 onwards.
Suta & Co: Cinematographer-turned-designer Shubham Kasera’s label, Suta & Co, caters to men like him “who do not like zari”. Instead, he uses textured fabric. The abundant use of layers and heavy fabric make his designs stand out in a crowd. Kasera brings out four collections a year — a festive collection for Diwali; a winter collection in December, featuring heavy fabrics and layers; a breezier summer collection in March, and a capsule collection between June and August. Available in Bengaluru and Chennai at Evoluzione, and Azra in Raipur. Prices start at ₹6,000.
Swoon: Boho looks are a favourite among indie designers, and Sakshi Astir of Swoon incorporates it with dreamy vintage French lace. Sported by the likes of Taapsee Pannu and Malaika Arora, their signature looks are in white, including maxi dresses, breezy blouses and the occasional structured bustier. Follow @swoon.designs on Instagram.
Torani: “Social media has been the oxygen for the brand,” says Karan Torani, 26, sharing how Ensemble’s head merchandiser had seen his Instagram posts soon after they launched last July and reached out. Today, his Delhi label retails at 22 offline and online stores across India. Are fashion weeks the next step? “For the moment, I’d rather invest the money in my production and photoshoots.” With heritage weaves and chintz as his USP, Torani draws inspiration from his Sindhi background. “I’m retelling stories of my community, reviving Sindhi embroidery and designing clothes that my mother and nani wore, like phirrans and short patialas.” Even his ‘western’ silhouettes take inspiration from Indian garments like gheras, angrakhas and kedias. “I take more risks with my menswear. A popular piece is the high-waisted trousers that take off from vintage Japanese patloons, with the nada (thread) becoming the belt.” With a couture line due in October, his pret pieces start from ₹8,000 and heritage from ₹35,000. On Instagram @toranioffi
White Champa: Anjana Das divides her time between Berlin and New Delhi, with frequent visits to Manila, where she collaborates with local artisans. Her label is known for its hand-embroidered patterns on flowy silhouettes, and her line of accessories features organic jewellery made using by-products of the food industry (like cow bones and scrap wood). While Das works on a consignment basis in India (overseas, it is a 100% outright buying), she speaks for many of her colleagues when she says, “I feel like the consignment method puts all the financial strain on the makers.” From ₹6,800 to ₹25,000 on whitechampa.com
Buna Studio: Pallavi Shantam follows a slow-make philosophy and aims to capture the vision of an Arcadian life in her latest collection. “Our signature silhouette is our Ambrosia dress made in mulmul khadi with hand block printed yoke and billowy sleeves,” says the designer, who has presented a collection at Lakme Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2018. Apart from their webstore, Instagram and Pinterest have helped increase their reach. “We’ve also changed our production model to ‘make to order’ and do fewer pop-ups to minimise over-production and wastage,” she adds. From ₹4,500-₹18,000 at bunastudio.com
Cord | cordstudio.in: The label’s handcrafted leather bags (it also produces contemporary silhouettes) feature quirky geometry, with a nod to local fabrics like ikat. With stores in New Delhi and Mumbai, it starts at ₹3,800.
IMMRI | immristudio.in: Known for their signature belt and strap bags, the Kolkata-based label was founded this February by Smriti Bordia and Simran Agarwal. The focus is on being functional, utilitarian and unique, with add-ons such as charms and straps that let you ‘Make Your Own Bag’. From ₹1,100 to ₹7,000.
Crow | worldofcrow.com: Hand-woven pants and summery silhouettes are a favourite for this Ahmedabad-based label which works with sustainable materials and artisans.
Duet Luxury | duetluxury.com: Inspired by the design aesthetic of Gucci and Cult Gaia, and backed by an understanding of woodcraft, Priyanka Baid’s distinctive wooden bags and minaudieres have been creating an impact among clients in Israel and Africa. The wood ranges from red cedar to mahogany, is often upcycled, and teamed with leather, crystals and metal, with jacquard and suede interiors. ₹6,000- ₹20,000.
Fawn | @nikhildx: Nikhil D, stylist and co-founder of talent agency Feat Artists, is not a prolific designer, but every few years he launches a collection of singular pieces. The latest: a 48-hour only online auction of 30 garments made from fabric waste (from labels Bodice, Ekà, Shift, Péro and Akaaro) on the Border & Fall Instagram account. “Creating something one-of-a-kind is special,” says Nikhil, who hopes to do another auction soon, with the remaining 50 pieces.
Graine: Mannat Sethi’s work with khadi and linen go way back, but this NIFT graduate and artist also has an interesting approach to upcycling – discarded metallic wires and scrap from markets like Chandni Chowk are repurposed as embroidery. No wonder then that her recent collection, which includes ethereal pashmina Kashmiri and organza bomber jackets, has just won her a sustainable award at Helsinki Fashion Week, and will be showcased there on July 22. A London pop-up might be next. The chikankari champion, who presents the celebrated bakhiya stitch in contemporary motifs, says it is all about “old craft in today’s language”. Cautious about showcasing and retailing on Instagram, Sethi likes to retain some of the mystery around her brand but plans to open a store in Delhi this year – clients can “have a cup of coffee and keep it casual”. ₹7,500 onwards (tops) and ₹25,000 onwards (jackets),at Ensemble.
Itrh: They were classmates at NIFT (knitwear), but it took Ridhhi Bansal and celebrity stylist Mohit Rai a while to team up for their new brand, Itrh. Soon to become a wedding staple, with its traditional ethos, Itrh has straight kurtis, maximal bottoms and the most decadent yet lightweight saris crafted from metallic wire. “Glossy, in metallic and pastels, they have visual texture and are a little heavier than regular chiffon saris,” says Rai. Don’t miss the hand-crochet resham fringe, the glamorous dupattas and the Lucknowi vibe. Coming soon, a new collection in saturated colours. ₹50,000 to ₹1.5 lakh at Ensemble, Ogaan and Aza.
Jaywalking: Mumbai-based Jay Ajay Jajal is an artist, rapper and, most recently, fashion designer. His six-month-old label, Jaywalking (@jaywalking.in), is taking on streetwear, with baggy cargo pants and graphic tees that are a throwback to the 90s. “I do everything from the designing and photoshoot, to delivery and cleaning of the studio,” he explains, adding, “If I make something today, I want the world to see it immediately. Which is why my pictures are clicked on the phone, and some of them feature my assistant as the model.” The gender-neutral brand has been sported by the likes of Ranveer Singh. From ₹6,000 onwards.
Khaore | khaore.com: This New York-based label, helmed by Kolkata-born Raiheth Rawla and designer Wei Hung Chen, features leather bags inspired by garbage cans and traffic cones. From ₹17,000 onwards.
Kshitij Jalori: The NIFT Delhi graduate is drawn to the looms of Banaras because “they are the most technically-advanced” and the weavers, adaptive. “I do pashmina brocades with them, fusing the dupatta and the shawl,” says the 29-year-old. A self-proclaimed ‘preservationist’, his Delhi-based brand’s first two collections — Coromandel Colony with its kadhwa technique (where each motif is woven separately) and chintz roots, and Gul Bulbul that used tanchoi, and was inspired by 13th century Persian artwork depicting the story of the bulbul and the rose — got him into Ensemble and Ogaan. Expect to see him next at the Lakmé Fashion Week in August, when he will launch his new Art Deco line. From ₹15,000 to ₹1.25 lakh. On Instagram @kshitijjalori.
LataSita | latasita.in: Meghna Nayak’s zero-waste label upcycles vintage classics in a closed loop supply chain. Examples include versatile kimono trenches made from heirloom silk saris.
Lola by Suman B | @lolabysumanb : A Bollywood favourite, celebrities like Esha Gupta, Dia Mirza, Shilpa Shetty and Mandira Bedi regularly sport this Goa-based label. The pret collection includes evening wear, gowns and jumpsui
