With Make in India gaining currency, the tenth edition of Fashion Design Council of India’s India Couture Week has couturiers incorporating indigenous craft technique, fabric and accessories in their wide assortment of outfits. So even when designers have given an international look to their garments, they have also seen to it that our national heritage has been used in a way that the discerning fashionistas would be able to spot them on the ramp.
Poetry on fabric
For Rahul Mishrahis show at ICW will be like a poet’s emotional outburst. In his collection “Parizaad”, to be presented at Hotel Taj Palace on July 27, the confluence of yarn, colours, textile and hand worked motifs will all come alive on the ramp.
Monisha Jaising’s ‘Opera Girl’ at work
These element, which make the fashion scene come alive, have been inspired by ancient science and architecture. New forms of visual expression, where abstract and complex geometry create varied patterns, will be showcased. Intricate vegetable motifs, patterns of mosaic, chevrons and spandrels from an earlier era will come alive to make the meticulous surface treatment appear surreal.
Translating the poetry of Rumi on outfits would be interesting. “His poetry sums up how the universe functions; there is beauty, mystery and charm. As a designer, I try to convey the same lucid messages onto my clothes.”
Complex geometric patterns are his favourite right from his school going days. “As a child, geometry was my favourite subject. I have always been fascinated by geometrical patterns and mathematical tessellations. Here I have gone back to the oldest geometric progressions which can be seen in Islamic architecture.”
Rahul Mishra’s ‘Parizaad’
Although Rahul is looking at Islamic architectural masterpieces, his approach follows a very Zen-like philosophy. “This time we have simplified and adapted our patterns to create a geometry that is continuous and seamless by intertwining floral motifs. I want architectural details to look uncluttered and feather light. Majolicas and haft rangi (seven colours) have been taken as reference points to create beautiful synergies of negative and positive depths of hand-embroideries.”
On how he used vegetable motifs, patterns of mosaic, chevrons and spandrels to give visual expression, Rahul says: “All these architectural details have got a very strong character and identity but it is all about making them my own. My own idea of them, using a Zen-like treatment, where intricate details are understated and heavy mosaic embroideries are applied onto translucent fabrics.”
The Opera girl
Monisha Jaising is presenting a stylish grand show “Opera” at the Fashion Week on July 28. She will translate beauty of the opera house on to each outfit in terms of right fittings, floral embroidery and dazzling embellishments.
Describing her collection as colossal, the veteran couturier says: “Right from 16th Century onwards, adolescent girls from privileged background used to deck up in their fine silhouettes and jewels. To me they have always resembled portraits featuring gorgeous girls sitting in their boxes at the opera house. Inspired by this, this collection has been created. It has right mix of finery and performance on stage.”
Monisha’s modern urban woman, whose spirit would be highlighted by each model, epitomises youthfulness and creativity. “I always keep the modern Indian woman in mind, who keeps in mind her traditions and values. The exuberant finery worn at the opera in earlier times has been used as an inspiration to create traditional yet contemporary garments. My woman loves her lehenga which is Indian in spirit but modern in its construction. Her cocktail sari, pre-draped to envelope the body with perfection, derives inspiration from the opera.”
The strong character and fragility of the opera singer personifies the colour palette of each couture piece ranging from burgundy to rose pink and from metallics to ice blue.
On how she has used indigenous craft technique, Monisha says: “Right from fabric to embellishments everything is Make in India. Lot of Indian fabric and embroidery like zardozi have been used but in a Western sense. Fabric has been obtained from all States of the country. Dramatic ethnic flair has been infused with modern element in concept lehengas and cocktail saris with contemporary fabrics like twisted silk jersey, tulle, Italian organza.”
Heritage on outfits
For Manav Gangwani, couture is not just about fashion; it has a broader meaning. “It represents a designer’s legacy and interpretation of fashion,” says the designer, who is presenting his India story at his show at The Lodhi on July 25.
Detailing, embroidery and silhouettes have all come together to create garments in his collection titled “India @ 70”.
“The title has to do with celebrating 70 years of India's independence. Putting together all embroideries of different parts of the country on each outfit was challenging. To start with, Kashmir has been reflected through Jamawars. Then we have Bandhanis of Rajasthan, Kathakali from Kerala and brocades of Varanasi. Incorporation of multiple elements and techniques, some new and some traditional make garments visually appealing. So we have shown a pan-India representation.”
On the need to follow the Make in India concept in such a big way, Manav says: “India has always been the hub of craft. Zardozi, chikankari, aari work have been around in India for so many years. Even today they are irreplaceable. It is important that we stay connected to our roots. They need to arouse interest among the new generation.”
In each garment, one could see a mix of rich Indian heritage along with modern edgy elements. “The colours used in every garment, textures, fabrics, embroidery and silhouettes have been inspired by evolved fashion trends over the years. Luxurious silk brocades, rich velvets, sheer gauzy tissues with gold, are the fabrics chosen to give a touch of royalty.”
Noting that he loves to introduce new ideas in the area of contemporary styles, the Delhi-based couturier says: “ I construct novel connections between the past and the present. Meenakari and patolas to panthani all forms have been used to reflect our heritage. It has been a challenge to incorporate the vast diversity our nation has to offer in just 70 garments.”
