It’s an off white meets blush pink chiffon fabric with an interplay of floral embroidery that speaks of the workmanship. The fabric is part of the Eid-il-Fitr collection at a retail store that has its presence in Abids, Tolichowki and Banjara Hills.
Luxurious looking chiffons with embroidery, inspired by Eid-ul-Fitr collections launched by well known Pakistan fashion labels, are a big draw in Hyderabad. The embroidered unstitched suit sets are priced anywhere from ₹6000 to 10,000. “Out of se aata hai …” is all that the staff will reveal if you ask where the stock comes from.
“Out of where?”
“Mumbai, Delhi…” he trails off.
It’s a similar story in a few other stores that stock Eid-il-Fitr collections as well. There’s something to suit different pockets and tastes — from dressy lehengas for brides to be to chic casuals for the festive season. Gown-styled dresses on display, according to the stores, target the teens and early 20s. But the more fast moving stock is that of Pakistan-style suit fabric.
What many retail stores here will not talk about is how many of these designs are inspired by new collections of design houses in Pakistan.
In trade circles, Pakistan designer labels such as Sobia Nazir, Sana Safinaz, Maria B, Asim Jofa and Rangrez are among the top picks. Lawn collections of Sobia Nazir and Sana Safinaz are replete with floral and lace embroidery on fine chiffons in pastel hues. With the Ramzan month falling in the cusp of summer and monsoon, the colour palette remains largely muted. Asim Jofa’s lawn collection rides on digital prints and vibrant colours.
“There are typically three to four kinds of collections,” says Sara Jamaal, a homemaker who liaises as an agent between retailers and consumers. “Pakistan designers launch limited edition original collections. Replicas of some of these collections are made in Pakistan itself since not everyone can afford original collections priced around, say 10 to 12,000 Pakistani rupees. The replicas are available at half the cost. Another set of replicas happen in areas like Surat where the designs are recreated on different fabric. The motifs remain the same but a closer look at the fabric and you will be able to tell the difference in quality. These clothes are available at ₹2000 to 3000 upwards,” she says.
The collections arrive from Pakistan and Middle East in bulk to Mumbai and Delhi from where it trickles down to the retail sector in different Indian cities through agents.
The original collections may be available in stitched and unstitched options in Pakistan, and often need to be pre-booked for online bookings. The bulk that finds its way to India is unstitched fabric. “Fitting becomes an issue and so does the quality of stitching. Replicas cannot match the original quality and hence, 90% is sold as unstitched fabric,” adds Sara.
A few originals from popular Pakistan retail labels that also have a presence in the Middle East find their way to Indian stores. For instance, the spring and Eid-il-Fitr collections of label Agha Noor with their sheer embroidered separates including capes, jackets and tops in organza and chiffons.
