A few weeks ago, I received a gold ring from a client, which was worn by his grandfather as a child. He wanted to retain the original inscription, but was keen that his son wear it. So we cut off the top bit of the ring and protected the initials with a next-generation design. We added diamonds around the casing, and the customer went home happy. This reminds me of a New York Times article for which I was interviewed a few months ago, where I said pint-sized people were now donning big jewellery and that the budget can go up to USD $55,000. India is in the midst of a fashion revolution, yes, but typically, Asia and China are also the countries that consider jewellery as an investment. That said, today’s parents, while shopping for Little Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren kids and Zara kids are also investing in fine jewellery for their children for purely sentimental reasons. And this is not an extension of the ancient custom, where the mother-to-be was gifted gold during the godh bharai (baby shower) or when it was given to the girl child as safekeeping till she was ready for marriage.
Today’s trend is like a throwback to the days of the Maharajas, when children were decked in ornaments from top to toe to represent family power, class and money. Fashionable parents are ensuring that their children are an extension of themselves and their wealth. Similar looks are created for mother and daughter or father and son, and I am referring to the jewellery here. There is also a nostalgic value attributed to jewellery when it is passed down generations or when you repurpose the same jewellery you wore as a child. Clients ask for a birth date on the back of the jewellery, or a wedding date or name, and these pieces have strong family ties.
Parents and grandparents are indulging their tech-savvy children by ordering customised pieces for their coming-of-age ceremonies. These are studded with 18k or 22k gold and diamonds, but precious birthstones and charms are also in demand. These ‘emotional’ pieces can take over three months to be made, and require a certain precision to ensure both comfort and safety. A few days ago, I received an order for a four-line emerald necklace, for a boy at his dhoti ceremony. Interestingly, the parents have also ordered a two-line ruby necklace for when he makes an entrance. There is a jewelled pin for the turban, and let me add that the boy was involved in the decision-making process from the word ‘go’. Designs are becoming edgier and experimental, even for the boys. Sometimes, they insist on repurposing stones or wearing, say, Cat’s Eye to an event. Many of my NRI clients, when they fly down for weddings, are keen to outfit their children or nephews in the same clothes as the groom. So from day one, we start working on jewellery designs that match the sensibility of the clothing designer, and also include specially-designed sherwani buttons with precious stones. Often, the neckwear or bracelets have to be adjusted once again before the wedding to accommodate their growth spurts. Spending time over charcoal sketches of necklaces, earrings and anklets and armlets, these children are getting what they demand. I have clients bringing friends of their children in groups of about seven to eight, to order jewellery. Interestingly, it is the 11-12-year-olds who are involved in the decision-making process, while the 18-year-olds often can’t be bothered.
Tarang Arora is president of Amrapali Jewels
