Fashion

Good Earth’s suit reset with FLOW

Grey mogra striped kala cotton linen jacket and pants   | Photo Credit: Good Earth

“There continues to be different struggles for women at work, however clothes are not one of them,” begins Deepshikha Khanna. “Women don’t want to compete with men via structured suits any more. That story is over!” As creative director at Good Earth’s new FLOW, Khanna has a tidy selection of contemporary basics to prove just that.

Mixing her learnings from previous stints at Delhi Crafts Council and her position as the former head of apparels at Good Earth’s ‘Sustain’ since 2016, Khanna brings her personal brand of deviously easy and conscious fashion to Good Earth’s latest prêt line. In development since 2019, before Covid hit us, it involves craft cluster organisations like Khamir and Malkha. Khanna’s solid design background (a graduate of Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandise, San Francisco, running one of India’s first denim brands ‘Jealous Jeans’, a stint at Levi’s and her own brand ‘Caramel’) meant she could identify and plan a new vertical quite quickly within the Good Earth banner. The aim: everyday basics, under the Good Earth lens, through the year.

Deepshikha Khanna, Creative Director, FLOW

Deepshikha Khanna, Creative Director, FLOW   | Photo Credit: Good Earth

Behind a mindful capsule

Flow consists of seven suits (black, white and stripes among others) that are made loungey for women, a single style of jumpsuit, blouses, slip dresses, and XL scarves in colours such as Dove-grey sufa, hand-dyed indigo blue, neutral grey, khaki and Good Earth’s signature white - mogra. All the pieces are made with handloom textiles, a growing demand from discerning shoppers.

“There was a gap in the market for a brand that helps you build a complete capsule wardrobe mindfully. We wanted to fulfil that,” says Khanna, who wants buyers to look at Indian textiles as ‘‘something chic’’ and deserving of space in everyday wardrobes. It is about going beyond traditional wear. She elaborates, “Post Covid, simplicity and sustainability have become the norm. Sustainability also means sustaining crafts and traditions and handloom is definitely a tradition in our country.”

Sufa linen wrap jumpsuit and cotton-merino scarf

Sufa linen wrap jumpsuit and cotton-merino scarf   | Photo Credit: Good Earth

With that thought in mind, Khamir in Kutch, famous for their Kala cotton weave, rejigged their signature cotton with a linen blend specifically for FLOW to add durability, structure and plushness. It is perfect for suits, the pièce de résistance in the collection. Working with Malkha (known for their ingenious mix of mulmul and khadi) from Telangana also helped modernise stripes. The final result is a luxe, restrained-sexy look. It is this earthy palette and use of only handloom textiles that sets FLOW apart from Nicobar, Good Earth’s sister RTW brand that offers wardrobe basics in playful feminine silhouettes, often in floral prints or polka-dots (where handloom fabrics are for special capsule collections).

When success is free-flowing

FLOW is a digital-first brand unlike other in-house projects, and will connect with its audience via digital and social media sales and virtual appointments. It was planned as a brand for a woman in her 40s, an oft-ignored demographic (or women who know their minds and aren’t afraid to wear them in boardrooms and on travels). Women that wear many hats and juggle many things, while free flowing through all of them. Good Earth stores may thus chalk out a specially curated section within the stores, and in the future include accessories that are gathered or inspired from Khanna and the team’s travels to offer a complete look.

Clockwise from top left: mogra linen racerback top and linen trousers, the FLOW sketchbook, sufa grey stripe kala cotton-linen jacket, indigo malkha wrap jumpsuit, and indigo malkha pinstripe drop crotch pants

Clockwise from top left: mogra linen racerback top and linen trousers, the FLOW sketchbook, sufa grey stripe kala cotton-linen jacket, indigo malkha wrap jumpsuit, and indigo malkha pinstripe drop crotch pants   | Photo Credit: Good Earth

The collection is to be sold as limited edition separates (only 20 pieces exist for each colour way) and future collections would follow a similar design language so buyers can continue to mix and match for years to come. Good Earth has been championing sustainable practices before it was a trend to do so. However natural dyes still do not make the cut, keeping costs in mind. “I wanted the shoppers to be able to hand wash the pieces often, without compromising the colours; it makes it cost effective,” says Khanna, who is aware that at almost ₹21,000, the suits are conscious buys, but still steep. To that effect, the jackets are kept unlined (to be worn across seasons) and the cut of the silhouettes ensure fabrics are used conscientiously.

Winter plans
  • There is a line of handloom silk kaftans, clamp dyed, in the works for winter and plans to launch accessories in collaboration with established designers Khanna has long admired.

The separates offer flexibility. The cover-ups can be worn on a plane or as a layer over a slip dress. “It’s for an intelligent buyer, someone who is not afraid to make the piece her own, by styling it in seven different ways,” says Khanna, whose Instagram account @dailystylematters is generous with ideas. The collection brings to mind what Belgian designer Martin Margiela told a reporter after one of his collections, “It’s for a small group of women, not everyone will like it. It’s important to do what you want, and there will always be some people who agree.” This is us nodding, in approval.

FLOW, ₹9,800 plus (dresses and wraps), ₹21,200 plus (suits), is at select Good Earth stores and at goodearth.in


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Printable version | Sep 18, 2021 6:43:19 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/fashion/good-earths-suit-reset-with-flow/article35048254.ece

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