Hers is a story of humble beginnings, of the power of perseverance and believing in oneself. At 72, couturier Pallavi Jaikishan looks back at a 45-year career in fashion. Back in 1972, she started out with two seamstresses after her husband, musician Jaikishan of the Shankar-Jaikishan duo, passed away. That was the starting point of what went on to become a fashion empire with her creations eventually being exported to New York stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor and Bergdorf Goodman. “Mine has been a most wonderful journey and I have enjoyed every moment of it,” exclaims Jaikishan. “When I opened my store in 1972 there was excitement galore. Back then, there were hardly any boutiques around, so it was a completely new experience for people.” Jaikishan recollects that her designs were practically sold out on the first day itself. “There have been so many fascinating as well as key moments in my journey that would probably fill an entire book,” she says.
Saree state of affairs
From the Ambanis to the Bachchans, everyone has worn her trademark designs. “A typical Pallavi Jaikishan woman is elegant and comfortable in whatever she is wearing,” says the designer. The designer believes that the saree has made a comeback and is much more than occasion wear in modern India. “Women are wearing trendily woven cotton and linen sarees to work sometimes,” she says. “The saree brings out sensuousness and is one of the best attire for a woman.” Her vintage garden print sarees are a massive hit abroad in addition to her jackets and tops. Florals, particularly vintage roses, have been a constant inspiration in her work. “I love nature and the beauty, the fragrance and the colours of the rose,” explains Jaikishan about her intrigue for the floral motif. “One can never tire of the beauty of the rose. Its impact is forever.” As for fabrics, her love for khadi, lawn, linen, wispy chiffons, georgette, organza and silks is evident. “I don’t relate much to synthetics except tulle, which is glamorous and can hold work very beautifully,” she states.
How has she managed to keep pace with the rapidly changing face of fashion? “One does have to change a bit with times and be innovative to be in this business for 45 years. When I started out, fashion was not an industry. It was a total tailor raj! There were hardly any stores selling readymade women’s garments. It has assumed industry status only in the past 20 – 25 years,” she states. And while she admires the work of “quite a few young designers”, Jaikishan is part of a rare breed who designs her collections entirely on her own. “I don’t have a junior to do the ground work. I love challenges and would love to venture into trendy Western wear. However, since my couture label takes up most of my time, it doesn’t seem to be feasible right now,” says Jaikishan whose design philosophy is to make clothes that are elegant and beautiful.
Jaikishan is of the opinion that the industry is currently plagued by lack of imagination and real talent. “There are more designers in the market than buyers,” she says. “It is very easy to launch a new label; all that you need is a tailor with a sewing and interlocking machine. No real talent is needed here. You borrow your inspiration from established designers.”
All this and more of her thoughts and observations will soon be documented in a book. In fact, Jaikishan is currently in the process of collecting material for it. “I am sourcing images and outfits that I have done many moons ago. It is a long drawn process and I do hope I will be able to complete it soon,” she signs off.
