Anu Vardhan has a penchant for picking South Indian handlooms that immediately find fans. When the costume designer draped Nayanthara in checked Chettinad silk cotton saris for her role in Viswasam , several people contacted her requesting replicas. The actor’s wardrobe in Diwali release, Bigil , follows a similar aesthetic, with Vardhan using sungudi and Kanchi cottons for both tailored outfits and saris. These will also be available as a capsule collection that is part of Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave initiative, to celebrate and revive the craft of Indian handwoven textiles.
“Nayanthara is very comfortable in handloom, and always encourages me to use them,” says Vardhan, adding that they work together on experimenting with the best ways to incorporate these weaves into the character’s wardrobe. For Bigil , she sourced handloom material from Co-Optex and authentic sungudi saris from Madurai. The latter is a cotton fabric that is traditionally produced using the tie-and-dye method, and was awarded the GI tag in 2005. The dotted pattern was brought down by Saurashtrians who migrated to Madurai in the 17th century. “It is a labour-intensive process, as each dot is hand-knotted and then dyed. A basic sungudi has at least 6,000 knots,” she explains.
This is reflected in the cost of the final product as well, with authentic handloom and naturally-dyed saris costing upwards of ₹3,500 for a simple pattern. Not to mention how time-consuming it can be, says Vardhan, recalling, “When I approached a cluster for 20 saris, they told me it would take six months.” However, when it came down to curating a collection meant to make traditional weaves accessible, it did not seem practical to have a high price tag. So she stuck to handloom fabric, but opted for the wax-dyed method, which is faster. And while the pieces are not direct replicas of what will be seen on the big screen, they will bear an unmistakable resemblance in terms of silhouettes and style. The line includes crop tops, skirts, dhoti pants and saris, and ranges from ₹1,500 to ₹7,500.
After 20 years in the industry, Vardhan says she has always been looking for a purpose that goes beyond work. “This isn’t about promoting the film or my costumes. I have always been passionate about textiles, and this is an opportunity to showcase weaves that are close to my heart,” she concludes.
Available at Isha Foundation stores; details on isha.sadhguru.org and @isha.savetheweave on Instagram
From Anu Vardhan’s capsule collection for Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave campaign, based on Nayanthara’s wardrobe in Bigil
From Anu Vardhan’s capsule collection for Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave campaign, based on Nayanthara’s wardrobe in Bigil
From Anu Vardhan’s capsule collection for Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave campaign, based on Nayanthara’s wardrobe in Bigil
From Anu Vardhan’s capsule collection for Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave campaign, based on Nayanthara’s wardrobe in Bigil
From Anu Vardhan’s capsule collection for Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave campaign, based on Nayanthara’s wardrobe in Bigil
From Anu Vardhan’s capsule collection for Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave campaign, based on Nayanthara’s wardrobe in Bigil
From Anu Vardhan’s capsule collection for Isha Foundation’s Save the Weave campaign, based on Nayanthara’s wardrobe in Bigil