“You have heard of Tangail and Dhaniakhali, haven’t you,” asks Shona of Deep Red. Of course I have, I tell her huffily, and add that I am an honorary Bengali. Still, I learn something new from her. Tangail is the more delicate of the Bengal handloom weave, while the Dhaniakhali is a sturdier and hardworking sari. It is a tad thicker, washes well and lasts forever. Shona has taken what she calls the ‘working class’ sari and given it a makeover with block prints and Kantha work. Starting at around ₹2, 500 these saris are pretty and affordable.
Every year as Crafts Council of Tamil Nadu’s Srishti rolls in, the husband begins to look nervous and I make rash promises to him and myself saying “I am NOT buying anything this year’. But, before Shona can say ‘Dhaniakhali’, I have snatched the sari from her saying, “I am taking that.”
Mala Sinha with the Vidarbha Saris
I have 61 more stalls to visit and I have to dig deep to find will power as I stand and stare at the saris in Bodhi. The designer beautiful Mala Pradeep Sinha explains that the deep Indigo with a red Karvati border (typical of Vidarbha saris), that I can’t look away from, is called Saraswati because the white motifs represent the goddess. Mala wears something similar and the blouse she has teamed with it looks not just elegant but supremely comfortable too. Sadly she does not do blouses.
Seema Agrawal with her collection of Paithanis
Exhibitions such as these draw our attention to weaving and dyeing techniques that we would otherwise never know of. Thanks to Srishti, discerning visitors understand so much more about a Paithani, a Dhanekaali or a Chanderi or the great weaving techniques from Kutch or Bengal. We learn motifs have their own name. We see the purists curating textiles that haven’t changed in centuries; then there are the young and bold who experiment, mix, match and do irreverent things with them with spectacular results.
Anaka Narayanan of Brass Tacks shows off her Indian contemporary wear
So while you see exquisite Paithanis and Tanchois that look just like the ones in your grandmother’s collection at Artisan Saga, you also have Anaka of Brass Tacks experimenting with natural and hand-crafted textiles for modern silhouettes. “It is not Western wear,” Anaka corrects me. “It is contemporary Indian wear.” She pulls out trousers, blouses and tops that incorporate so many textures and weaves. Incidentally, Seema Agrawal of Artisan Saga has curated an amazing collection of Paithanis and the good news is that she has cotton ones too that look just as beautiful as their silk counterparts and a lot more affordable.
A collection of silver jewellery
Chikankari, Bagru, Banarasi tissues, gossamer Chanderis (thankfully with small buttis in pastel tones instead of loud garish ones), linens in various forms... there is plenty and more to learn about and, if you are lucky, buy. There are jewellery outlets too offering gold-plated earrings as well as silver and semi precious stone-studded ware. There are bits and bobs for kids and the young to stick into their hair, around their necks and on their arms. There are readymade garments, bed linen and dupattas and yardage a plenty to choose from.
I dodge Bodhi but can’t resist a beige-and-black woollen stole from Shwet. Owner Shweta tells me that it was woven by a craftsman who is physically challenged. All her creations are sustainable, she explains. “It is a dream for every individual to enjoy handcrafted textiles without burning a hole in their pocket. I believe in a sustainable work model. I use only natural materials that are locally sourced from in and around Kolkata. And my craftspeople are also local.”
Info you can use
On until September 22, from 10.30 am to 8.00 pm every day
At Suguna Kalaya Mandapam on Avinashi Road
Shopping can be a hungry business so there are several food stalls outside where you can refuel
