I t was an unexpected meeting with an enterprising yet economically backward woman at the Delhi School for the Blind that acted as a catalyst for his new collection. For Amit Aggarwal, who frequently visits the institution for visually impaired persons, this fruitful interaction with this woman hailing from the Waghri community of Gujarat – who in order to earn her livelihood was selling quilt, patch work art made from discarded saris – broadened his view of fashion.
Naturally, Amit has now started using old discarded saris, which once had been pride of wearers, in structured tops, jackets. “Every year Trishala runs a stall at Diwali mela at Delhi School for the Blind and we have been meeting over the years. She informed me about women in Gujarat who have been exchanging their old saris for aluminium utensils. So I have given old Patola saris a new identity.”
Amit Aggarwal
This goes with his vision of design ethics. “I am not using expensive party wear saris but tattered rejected ones. I converted them into textiles and then used them in a new avatar on garments. These are single Ikat saris and not double Ikat ones worn by the royal families of Gujarat,” says the designer, who is presenting them in Seamless, his collection at Lakme Fashion Week on February 1.
Explaining the methodology of giving his own touch to ripped old saris procured from the Western State, Amit says, “In the hope to increase their lifeline, discarded Patola saris were restored by using innovative industrial treatment and responsible design ethics. This is how I was able to fortify them and arrange them as a new entity. Restoration was also done by using modern industrial treatments like bonding, pleating and weaving with man-made yarns to secure them as a new identity. These un-stitched pieces of cloths have been re-aligned as new modern structured silhouettes. We have juxtaposed these saris as textiles with recycled plastic strips.”
Models wearing Amit Aggarwal’s creation
Welcoming knowledge
Despite learning tricks of the trade from fashion guru Tarun Tahiliani himself, who had hand picked him after he excelled at NIFT, Amit still has hunger for acquisition of knowledge whether it is learning new craft or methodologies in designs. And he does not mind if these words of wisdom come from a novice on fashion or artisans of varied hues. “Learning and imbibing new crafts in our work as designers is only important to preserve the country’s tradition. I also explore different art and crafts for the love of it,” says Amit, who is sourcing old torn saris from Trishala.
With people parting away old saris, instead of preserving them as heirloom, Amit feels it is high time that new innovations and modern elements are incorporated in traditional saris. the primary economic motto is ‘waste not, want not’. Recycling not only extends to various organic materials but also to textiles, fabrics and garments. These are re-utilized to save on money. The fact is that saris, though extremely popular, tend to be expensive, especially in their formal or party wear avatars, which is why when they became unfashionable or old, they were converted into curtains. Today, of course, Indian sari curtains are
“Utilising new modern techniques to give these old handwoven textiles a new life is vital to protecting our heritage and also to make them wearable again.
There is nothing like a new handwoven sari but I feel old broken saris are more soulful with the memories of the person it belongs to. In our collection we try to preserve these old saris and the memories attached to it.”
Using silk Chanderi with nylon meshes, poplins, tapestry and faux leather braids was a challenge.
“Silk Chanderi being a sensitive fabric can be tricky to use with recycled waste. Such materials are meticulously put together with nylon meshes, faux metal sheets and leather braids. These being contrasting materials bring the visual curiosity and structure in the collection.”
In some outfits there are some elements of fabrics and embroideries which are seen on garments worn by women from the hills.
“There has not been direct references from clothing of mountain people but we are using elements and reflections inspired by their oversized garments. Lakme Salon will be playing up textures and styles with clever use of castaway materials for hair.”
For the record, this designer understands the significance of feel of hands and is game for putting his creativity, experience and sense of aesthetics into a collection which visually impaired persons can make out what he has created in terms of textures, embroidery and design.
“It is a great idea to develop something for visually impaired kids but I would look forward to making something in a collaboration with them. That can be really interesting thing to do.”
