Adventure cyclist Dhruv Bogra credits English biker Ian Teunion for inspiring him to ride across remote and distant lands. His first trip with Teunion was in 2012, part of a mountain bike expedition at Khardung La. “Cycling up remote mountain passes on some of the most challenging roads in the world, solo and unsupported, was exhilarating,” recalls Bogra, 51, also the India country manager of fashion brand, Forever New.
The cyclist who launched his book, Grit, Gravel and Gear , in April this year, talks about his 2016 solo pan-American journey (from Alsaka to Argentina) on his trusty steel Surly Troll cycle. He started noting down his experiences on a Chromebook while he was still on the road, and completed it in March 2018 after returning to his corporate life in New Delhi.
Bogra, who is gearing up for his next ride to South America — where he plans to explore Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina — gives us his pick of three deadly terrains that are sure to test your mettle as a cyclist.
Banff and Icefields Parkway, Canada (Terrain: Moderate): The Icefields Parkway from Jasper to Lake Louise, and from the Banff Parkway to Banff town, is a cyclist’s dream come true, says Bogra. “The roads are fantastic, the landscape of the Canadian Rockies and the highway is flanked by noteworthy, ancient glaciers, pristine lakes and rivers, and the famous Columbia Icefield (at Jasper National Park).” He camped on the 232 kilometre long highway at wilderness hostels, campgrounds and even by a gorgeous lake in frigid temperatures. “By September the temperatures had begun to fall below freezing and cycling in the morning was very tough,” he admits.
Baja Desert and Peninsula, USA (Terrain: Difficult): Bogra entered Tijuana, the Mexican border city near San Diego (notorious for its drug wars), and travelled down Mexico Highway 1 on the Baja Peninsula. “The entire region is dotted with tiny villages and after a two-day ride, I reached the beautiful town of Ensenada, the ‘Cinderella of the Pacific’. I started writing my book here,” he says, having spent a few days there to recover from a severe bout of bronchitis. At the edge of the desert lies El Rosario, a town that gives way to the 450 kilometre barren Valley of the Boojum — a tough terrain to traverse given the strong winds. The only places to camp for the night are in the desert or in small ranches where truckers stop for a meal. On crossing the desert, he suggests cycling across the picturesque towns of Mulege, Loreto and La Paz.
The Peruvian Andes, South America (Terrain: Extreme): Cycling over 1000 kilometres in the Andes with a gear laden bicycle needs tremendous endurance. The terrain is as rugged as it is beautiful and the high altitude is brutal, continues Bogra, who cycled in the Andes for two months. The highest ranges in the world after the Himalayas are home to high altitude plateaus and lakes. What he enjoyed the most was the vibrant culture of the Quechua people. “The Sacred Valley is home to the capital of the Incas, Cusco, and to epic ruins in Machu Pichu, Oolantaytambo, etc. Riding here is hard but the local landscape makes it worth the effort.”
Dalton Highway (Terrain: Extreme): Riding across one of the most remote and dangerous roads in the world — with no mobile services and communication network — was challenging. “The stretch is home to polar bears, black bear, wolves, caribou and foxes. There is only one stop, Coldfoot, where you can get beer and burgers,” says Bogra who advises cyclists to stock up on food and water for two weeks. “In addition to food, I had to carry gear which included dehydrated food pouches, advanced water filters, a portable solar panel and satellite messenger. It was essential for me to know the basics of wilderness survival skills, including how to deal with an attack from a hostile bear. This highway is only for the crazy adventurers who are willing to risk their lives to fulfil a passionate dream.”
Southern Mexico and Guatemala (Terrain: Difficult): Bogra took a ferry from La Paz on the Baja Peninsula to the Mexican mainland, docking at a historical port called Mazatlan. Exploring forests and the astounding ruins of the great Maya Empire like Bonampak, Palenque and Tikal, were the highlights, he says, adding, “The terrain is hilly and covered with thick, unexplored tropical jungles. The climb from Chiapas De Corzo to San Cristobal is just 60 kms but it took me 11 hours of uphill cycling as the elevation gain was 10,000 ft for the short distance.” Bogra warns fellow riders to be wary of bandits. He speaks about his visit to the isolated village of Chamula, famous for its 15th century church which combines ancient Maya rituals and Christian beliefs. “Photographs are forbidden inside and if you do use a camera, be prepared for it to be broken by the locals. The elderly believe that a photograph once taken, steals their soul,” says the adventure cyclist who He also visited the heritage and quaint city of Antigua in Guatemala, once partly destroyed by a massive earthquake. “It lies at the base of Volcan De Fuego, an active volcano at a height of 12,000 ft, that I climbed in a day. You can also take up activities such as volcano boarding: it's like snowboarding, except that one descends a mountain of lava at 70-90 kmph with shrapnel of rocks flying at your body! But guides will ensure you wear a protective suit and goggles.”
