Desi near Southend Circle in Jayanagar unveiled its range of home furnishings recently. The range, inaugurated by noted filmmaker MS Sathyu, is another step in the trust’s effort to keep alive an alternative, sustainable model in textile production.
The nearly 180 products ranging from menswear, saris, accessories, curtains, cushion covers, bed covers and table runners sport typical Desi weaves and hues. “We are not increasing product volume for commercial purposes,” says Prasanna, founder of Desi and Charaka. “Our model brings in more villagers into the co-operative.”
The retail wing has a co-operative weaving initiative, Charaka, that has roped in rural weavers from Karnataka and the neighbouring States. “Charaka is a model story about a rural women’s collective formed two decades ago, which has grown into the largest naturally-dyed handwoven fabric unit in the country. The Charaka movement produces 35,000 metres of handloom every month,” says Prasanna.
Its growth from 13 women and two sewing machines to a workforce of 800 across nine districts of Karnataka can be replicated in other parts of the country. “This alternative sustainable model in textile production provides employment to rural artisans,” explains Prasanna.
Explaining the reasons for expanding its product range, Prasanna says, “With every addition in our range, nearly 400 more rural people are employed. We will be training more women in block printing for our home furnishing range. One should bring back the Swadeshi movement in cottons too so that people are aware of their roots. This is how we make customers at Desi think and become activists of sorts to achieve a goal.”
Desi and Charaka’s efforts start at Shram Jeevi Ashram in Heggodu near the Malnad region of Karnataka where anyone can stay, watch, learn and be part of the weaving processes. “Hundreds have been trained in this internal training unit as everything happening here is part of the process of weaving. One can be underprivileged wanting to be trained, or a designer who wants to learn more by seeing the practical process or a connoisseur who wants to watch and have a discussion. Learning is given importance here,” says Prasanna.
For Prasanna, while it has been gratifying that the cooperative-made rough cotton has earned its place, that the movement has helped cotton become compatible in price with chemically-dyed fabric is especially rewarding. “It is momentous to have brought cotton to the middle class.”
Charaka’s efforts have made weaves from Patteda Anchu in Gadag, Ilkal of Bagalkot district, Narayanpet saris of Koppal district more accessible. “We will soon be focussing on the taana-baana of Udupi to preserve the weave for posterity,” says Prasanna. The mission of the Charka cooperative is to replace chemical dyes with natural dyes.
