Advanced style was mainstreamed in part after Ari Seth Cohen began a blog in 2008, at 35. In it, he showcased photographs of older women he was intrigued by, their pictures always going with a story. Their clothing choices were interesting, though that wasn’t the whole story.
Now he has brought the focus back on age, with his new book, Advanced Love , out on December 24 (open for pre-order). Admiting that he is “constantly learning from the men and women I photograph”, he talks about his new book, and his take on advanced style.
Tell us about your new book.
It is a photographic exploration of love and companionship later in life. I compiled diverse stories and relationship tips from extraordinary couples from all over the world. This book is different from my last two in that it is more about people and relationships than their style and personal expression, but most of them do present themselves quite fashionably.
When would you say advanced style turned into a movement?
Early in 2008, magazines and newspapers started to write about Advanced Style. I think New York Magazine and Paper magazine were among the first. The New York Times wrote a few articles about my project as well. My first book in 2012, followed by the Advanced Style Documentary in 2014, started a movement in the fashion and advertising worlds, in which older models were finally being recognised in worldwide campaigns. All of a sudden ageing was in.
How is advanced style as much about fashion as it’s about life?
On my website, Instagram, books and film I’ve always shared stories, tips, essays, and the perspective of the men and women who so generously allow me to photograph them. They are my muses because of their incredible attitudes, above all else. One of the stars of the Advanced Style Documentary, artist Ilona Royce Smithkin, continues to live alone, paint, go on daily walks and swim at 98; Tao Porchon Lynch is the world’s oldest yoga teacher at 100. She believes age is more an energy than a number.
Some may think most of the people in your photos are over the top?
I present a diverse range of style and expression in my work. It’s not about being over the top, but being free to express without judgement. So many times older people are told to tone it down, to fade into the background and become invisible as they age. The people I photograph, whether elegant or more artful, continue to become even freer and connected to their personal expression as they get older. What is over the top to one is merely another’s everyday look.
What specific age group do you look at?
I once waited four years for someone to turn 60 before I could photograph her. I generally start at 60, but over the years with Advanced Style I have learned to compromise a bit. The youngest couple in Advanced Love are in their late 50s, the oldest in their late 90s.
What is your process when you photograph people?
It really depends on the city, but somewhere like NYC, I walk all day, downtown to uptown, east to west, looking for something that catches my eye. It can be a glimpse of beautiful silver hair, a gold turban, a vintage coat, but it always starts with attitude. I am looking for something that will inspire others to embrace ageing and the freedom to express themselves at any age.
What do you think your own advanced style will look like?
I think I’m already there. My personal style is always changing with my mood and what I feel I want to express. I am constantly learning from the men and women that I photograph.
