A colonial throwback

The picturesque Richard’s Park offers a time-travel experience to the British era

October 02, 2017 05:22 pm | Updated 05:22 pm IST

Bangalore - 16/07/2012 : COX TOWN -  Richards Park at Cox Town, in Bangalore on July 16, 2012 .     Photo: K. Murali Kumar.

Bangalore - 16/07/2012 : COX TOWN - Richards Park at Cox Town, in Bangalore on July 16, 2012 . Photo: K. Murali Kumar.

If you’re on a train heading from City Railway Station and pass through Bengaluru East Station, you can’t miss the quaint colonial vibe that the surroundings, buildings and roads exude. The feeling becomes even more prominent when you cross Frazer Town and go through Cox Town, Benson Town and Richard’s Town. Nestled in a green canopy of trees, the Cantonment area of Richard’s Town still has pockets of spaces that are reminiscent of the British era.

Occupied predominantly by Anglo-Indians even before Independence, you will notice almost every street in Richard’s Town is named after an English gentleman. And at the heart of this cosy, laid back neighbourhood is Richard’s Park. The park square faces Holy Ghost Church, with wide avenues branching off on all sides of the park.

At the centre of the green square is the six-sided Wheeler Pavilion that is named after W H Wheeler, an engineer in the British administration. The erstwhile bandstand, which had seen many a music troupe perform, is now a quiet resting place for joggers and walkers to take a break and enjoy the nature around them.

What makes Richard’s Park significant is its contribution to the planning of the area around it. The wide roads, the neat footpaths, tree-lined avenues and colonial bungalows – all branch out from the park. Bungalows in neatly-divided plots and the roads laid out in gridiron formats; walking in the neighbourhood makes you feel like you are in the Old Blighty. Of course some of the bungalows have disappeared, making way to high-rise apartments that partially diminish the beauty of the place, but the remaining bungalows with their large gardens, spacious surroundings, European trellis work and slopping tiled roofs still retain the charm of the neighbourhood.

The park itself is an escape – not just for people looking for a slice of Britain in Bengaluru, but also fitness enthusiasts and nature lovers. While it was open throughout the day earlier, Richard’s Park now has restricted timings of entry and is closed on Sundays – but one can still enjoy the lush greenery sitting outside the park premises.

Sunil Naik, a retired gentleman in his late 70s, proudly says, it’s his early morning walks around the park that still keep him fit. “It’s a routine me and my wife Sheela have been following for the last 25 years. The park provides the kind of ambience we love – quiet, traffic-free surroundings and fresh air. That coupled with Bengaluru’s cool climate makes it an ideal place. Of course, we’ve seen a lot of apartments coming up and that is taking a toll on the park’s beauty. Nevertheless, it’s still a charming, old-world garden.”

Occasional gatherings of youngsters chilling out on their bikes parked outside the lawn area or older men leaning against the walls are a common sight. Nandini Sheker, another regular and a former school teacher, says she has made many a friend during her walks around the place. “The ladies living around the park area are now quite well-acquainted. We discuss recipes, family problems and anything under the sun that interests us. We occasionally make fun of our lazy husbands too when we catch them sneakily downing a gol gappa or a street snack from the hawkers outside the park entrance.”

Jonathan Charles, an accountant from Italy who’s made the city his home, says he finds the tranquil setting at the park an escape from Bengaluru’s traffic and pollution. “Having grown up in the countryside, I’ve always loved being around trees. Although called the Garden City, Bengaluru is rapidly losing its lung spaces. And while Cubbon Park and Lal Bagh are the big ones with the large crowds, Richard’s Park is still like an undiscovered cosy green hideout that only the residents around the area frequent.”

The park also provides space for lovers’ trysts and blossoming romance. Take a stroll and you will find every corner occupied by couples. Geetha Kumar (name changed) recalls the time she and her husband used to bunk college to catch up in the park. “We only got a half hour every day to meet back then, so we would rush from our respective colleges and sit either on the benches or near the pavilion. This was seven years ago. Even amid the steady number of evening walkers, we were undisturbed. There was a mutual understanding. We would behave respectably and the walkers would give us our privacy.”

The Richard’s Park area has something to offer for everyone. The religious throng the magnificient Holy Ghost Church. Bungalow 7, an archaic building that has maintained its charm, is often decked up as a wedding and reception venue. A range of tummy treats – from Happy Belly Bakes, Corner House Ice-creams, Wang’s Kitchen and Ente Keralam among a horde of others – line up around the park as well for a quick bite or a heavy meal.

( Where we discover hidden and not so hidden nooks and crannies of the city )

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