As colonial powers unfurled their flags across continents, the uniforms of their armies were saturated with colour and reminders of conquests. Gentlemen officers in plumed shakos and dun Terai hats rode at the head of turbaned sepoys and their mess uniforms — gold braid, scarlet epaulettes and cross-belts with regimental insignia — were as much the stuff of legend as their battle honours. When it seemed near impossible to fight in the scorching plains of the Punjab dressed like figures from an operetta, drab cotton tunics that blended with the landscape were introduced and ‘khaki’, the Persian term for ‘dust’, entered the clothing lexicon. At the turn of the 20th Century, Thomas Burberry introduced a trench coat in rain-proof gabardine, and new-age warfare brought camouflage prints. Between the dashing cut of the coat and the high-street accessibility of these all-pervasive prints stands an entire roster of military-inspired fashion — shirt dresses, lace-up boots, berets, bomber jackets, rucksacks, aviator sunglasses and submariner watches.
“It’s been a recurring theme on the catwalk,” says Chennai-based designer Vivek Karunakaran, who created Regimental, a military-inspired collection in 2015. As recent as last week, Balmain’s Fall 2017 Menswear featured signature T-shirts under camo jackets accented by crouching tigers, hidden dragons and rising phoenixes on the Paris catwalk. Valentino was not far behind with its Spring-Summer 2017 line that evoked sepia-toned memories of empire-era embellishments, Sam Browne belts and the swelling straps of heroic parachutists through its crop jackets and chevron encrusted pullovers.
Closer home, eponymous label Pankaj & Nidhi showcased the romantic grandeur of the uniform in its Autumn-Winter 16 collection, ‘Artful Army’. “ The American Soldier , a book with beautiful illustrations of uniforms from the 17th and 18th centuries, made its way into my library,” says well-known designer Pankaj Ahuja. “I hail from an Army background and ‘Artful Army’ is an unabashed ode to this. The influence has been a subtle part of every collection — cropped jacket silhouettes, trousers and breeches. We imported colour and merino wool fabrics from Austria. We chose shades of olive over typical camouflage prints and worked on the theme of ceremonial jackets embellished in the military tradition. The epaulettes were changed from gold to black to make them accessible for evening wear. Our earlier collection, ‘House of Cards’, was Spanish matador-influenced, and that in turn got its inspiration from ceremonials.”
“Military-inspired fashion has a lot of character, and it’s interesting to see how it can be interpreted. For my ‘Regimental’ line, I worked on bringing in contrasts in the trimming, colour and the use of metallic buttons,” says Karunakaran. “The trick is to make it look less in-your-face; so, panels and patches on the garment, yokes, cuff detailing and pockets are areas where the accent works well.”
High-street fashion has for long embraced the military look. Cargo pants, cropped jackets, culottes, shorts, wife beaters and stoles (Bata’s Marie Claire has a range in every shade of green) inspired by battle fatigues rule the racks.
“It’s a trend like the blue jeans. You look up to uniforms, whether they are worn for rebelliousness or respect. The Beatles were pioneers of a sort, wearing uniforms for the album cover of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band . It’s a consequence of the fact that everyone loves the idea of it. It has a deeper psychology — you are wearing it but not in the regimented way it’s supposed to be worn. It’s an anti-statement, a way of being cool in your own way,” says Ahuja.
Karunakaran says that more than a silhouette, it is the styling that makes the difference. “The manner in which it is worn, how it’s used and the detailing allow for variation. A fluid dhoti pant with a camisole and a bomber jacket exudes style in its simplicity. The perspective should bring freshness to the take. What is the point of being served what you’re expected to be served?” he asks.
For ‘Regimental’, Karunakaran used silk ikat. “Indian handloom traditions work well with interpretations. So do jewel and deeper tones. Even white with a play of lustre and matte on the same garment would look fantastic,” says Karunakaran.
Ahuja says that ‘Artful Army’ was well-received commercially too, because it had a high element of wearability.
“I’d choose a shade between emerald and olive green, because it suits the Indian skin tone and it’s a colour that evokes nostalgia. When we styled the line, we passed over fatigues because they were overdone, and chose to highlight mess uniforms with epaulettes and lanyards. Cropped jackets with an embellishment on the chest wear well for older women when designed as a tunic. Even a T-shirt with a badge or emblem highlights the line,” says Ahuja, of the sleeves with Victoria Cross patches sewn in.
The subculture of the military look is also helmed by accessories. American watch brand Benrus, known for its timepieces, now offers backpacks and bomber jackets. At the other end of the spectrum is Rolex, with its submariner dive watches made for British defence forces. Known as MilSubs, these 1970s-made watches are considered the zenith of military timepieces by renowned auction houses and there are very few left. Ahuja, however, feels that “accessories call for the right kind of manufacturing strength. They complete your look on the catwalk, but unless brands reach out, they won’t go beyond embellishment.”
Adds Karunakaran, “The ‘Regimental’ look already has a strong visual, so I wouldn’t want to add more to it. The key is to style a look rather than buy a brand.”
Proof enough, why the military mode works for officers, gentlemen and soldiers of fortune.
