If Chennai were a drink, the first thought that springs to mind is filter kaapi. Others might suggest rose milk or buttermilk. But across the city, mixologists are crafting their own creative interpretations of the city as a beverage, drawing on history, local ingredients, geography, and today’s generation of Chennaiites.
A photo or Lord and Lady Connemara at Taj Connemara | Photo Credit: Ananyaa Desikan
While today there are many spots to stop by for a cocktail, back in the late 1800s and early 1900s, cocktails were a rarity, available only at what is now the Taj Connemara on Binny Road. “We were the only hotel that had ice back then. It came all the way from Ireland. Lady Connemara, after whom this bar is named, would come here for cocktails. Every Thursday was a cocktail night and there was an advertisement that said ‘Every Thursday night is a Connemara night’,” shares Stephen Abraham, catering assistant and bar in-charge at Taj Connemara.
Madras No.1 at Taj Connemara | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The Madras No.1 and Since 1891 cocktails have been on the menu since 1891. Madras No.1 is a gin-based cocktail with cucumber, pear, and basil. As the hotel was the city’s first licensed bar, the drink was aptly named. “Lady Connemara would bring her friends for cocktails and there used to be kitty parties and high teas where these cocktails were sipped and charlies of sandwiches, pastries, and finger food would be served,” Stephen adds.
The other legacy drink, Since 1891, is believed to reflect Lady Connemara’s personality. Made with Connemara Irish whiskey, sharp and sweet vermouth, orange bitters to signify her bold nature, while ginger to represent her anger. The sweetness of cherry liqueur and honey denote new beginnings and an era of strength and independence. A cinnamon stick is torched by the table and placed on the drink, adding theatrics and a touch of smokiness to appeal to the modern drinker. Both recipes have remained unchanged over the years.
Bloody Mulligatawny at The Park Chennai | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Tapping into the colonial past, the recently launched cocktail menu at The Leather Bar at The Park Chennai features a Bloody Mulligatawny, a savoury cocktail inspired by the classic Bloody Mary and mulligatawny soup. “Savoury cocktails are becoming a popular trend and the obvious choice would be to go for a rasam-based one. But since we wanted to pay homage to the city’s heritage, we recreated the mulligatawny. We use fresh tamarind pulp and spices to make this drink,” says Shubhendu Shekhar, senior food and beverage manager, The Park Chennai.
Drawing on the many names that our coastal city has had, the Library Blu at The Leela Palace Chennai offers the Madeiros Mystery, made with whisky or vodka, pistachio and orgeat syrup, cardamom dust, and saffron bitters. “Is the name Madras from Madrasapattinam or was it from the Portuguese-given name Madre de Deus? This is a mystery. This cocktail reflects it,” shares Ramesh E, beverage and bar manager at The Leela Palace, Chennai.
1975 cocktail at WelcomHotel by ITC Chennai | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
WelcomHotel by ITC on Cathedral Road also has its share of history-inspired beverages. The bar was named after Charles Durrant, one of India’s first wine merchants. Here, the Madras 86, made with cognac, pineapple juice, orange juice, and a curry leaf garnish, represents the hotel’s pincode. The hotel, which opened in 1975, also offers a cocktail of the same name, made with wine, vodka, pineapple juice, lime juice, and sugar syrup.
At ITC Grand Chola, the cocktail menu takes us further into the past and delves into Chola-inspired beverages. “Traditionally, the people of Chennai are known to enjoy brown liquors like cognac and brandy. So we have XOXO, which features cognac, nannari, and peated malt infused with saffron. We also have a tamarind-based option called The Puli, made with tequila and green chilli, served with an appalam and mor milagai,” says Shaariq Akhtar, general manager, ITC Grand Chola.
Maami’s Martini at The Park Chennai | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Across menus, nannari and filter coffee are commonly featured, recognised as quintessential ingredients associated with Chennai. Most coffee-based cocktails take the form of an espresso martini. At The Park, it is called Maami’s Martini, an imaginative nod to the after-hours personality of Mylapore. Made with filter coffee decoction, Irish whisky, and coffee liqueur, this drink is served in a stemless martini glass placed in an ice-filled bowl, mimicking the traditional davara and tumbler. The Chukku Kaapi at ITC’s Cheroot, part of their ‘Cholatails’ menu, is also made with filter coffee, dry ginger, and a spritz of cardamom perfume, served with a murukku in a davara and tumbler.
The Cathedral Road Collins at WelcomHotel is made with nannari syrup, gin, lemon juice, and tonic water. “Nannari or sarsaparilla is known to cool the body, and since Chennai is mostly hot, it’s great to include in the drinks. And since we are on Cathedral Road, we decided on the name,” shares Thameen Ashna Sahib, assistant food and beverage manager at Welcomhotel By ITC Hotel Chennai.
Affair cocktail with sea water at Pandan Club | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
At The Pandan Club, the cocktail menu is inspired by Chennai’s unique elements. The Affair uses a rather unusual ingredient: a splash of sea water. “An important part of the city for me is the beach, and using raw mango or sundal wasn’t the representation I was looking for. So we use a drop of refined sea water from Marina Beach. It’s essentially saline water, so it balances out the other ingredients like Pandan Scotch and palm jaggery,” informs co-founder Manoj Padmanabhan.
The cocktail menu of the restaurant is called the ‘Shortest Route,’ representing the journey between Chennai and Singapore with a touch of humour. The cocktail movie night is a tribute to the cinema-loving city that is Chennai. “When we go to watch a movie, we may or may not enjoy the film but there will be popcorn. And for most Chennaiites, their first drink would have been Old Monk. This cocktail features a popcorn infused old monk with campari. As garnish we have jujips, which are a childhood favourite,” explains Manoj. The creamy and buttery bittersweet drink is made using a freeze filteration technique and comes with a movie ticket coaster.
“Each person will have their own stories with the city. With this line up of drinks, there will be some aspect of the city and the drink that anyone can sync with. We only use ingredients available in the city, including the liquor. Each drink also employs a technique that is not commonly used in making cocktails. It is because of what Chennai is and what it means to the city that we could tell such stories,” he adds.
Spicy Pullingo | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“Chennai as a city itself is a cocktail. Each area has a different vibe, and it all blends well together as a wholesome city,” says Ramesh. “Going with today’s Chennaiite, we have the Spicy Pullingo. Pullingo is a Chennai word you won’t hear anywhere else. They are youngsters of the city with a funky sense of fashion and a bold mindset. To reflect this, Spicy Pullingo is made with jalapeno-infused vodka and charged with pineapple, which has a rough exterior and is sweet inside, much like our pullingo,” he adds.
At The Park, the Bumblebee cocktail reflects today’s dating scene in the city. “Is this destined to be your next situationship?” the menu asks. The drink is a classic mojito with a twist: three-year-old Caribbean rum, fresh ginger, passion fruit syrup, lime, mint, and blue pea tea. “It’s a take on couples who meet via an app and come here for a date. Some dates might not turn out to be the right match, but this drink will be,” says Shubhendu.
In addition to these drinks available year-round, many bars across the city have launched special Chennai-themed menus to celebrate the city with refreshing new recipes. As Madras Day approaches, these creative cocktails present a spirited way to connect with Chennai’s past and present. Whether you are sipping on a legacy drink at an iconic hotel or exploring new flavours at a trendy bar, these beverages serve as a boozy and delicious reminder of the city’s vibrant and ever-evolving identity.
Published - August 09, 2024 02:13 pm IST
