Meal with a view | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
How do you revamp a 38 year old culinary institution, a restaurant that was used as a venue to mark milestones: a sweet first date, brunch with friends or a dreamy wedding — Gallops and its stunningly lush lawns was always the answer. But I am happy to report that the cherished South Mumbai restaurant has done a beautiful job of coming back refreshed and restored in the gentlest of ways. And it does not stop at the ambience. The menu too has gone through a renaissance.
History on a plate
Gallops was co-founded by Jasmine Singh along with the late Rahul Malik in 1986. Mumbai had not seen anything like it before — an elegant restaurant fringed with vast green lawns and views of the racecourse and its horses. It did not take long for Gallops to become a celebrity magnet. It was a regular haunt for the famous painter MF Husain. He would come in the afternoon and sketch the horses on the table cloth. And then take the table cloth with him. But he did sign quite a few of their menus before he left. Actor Jackie Shroff could also often be seen here enjoying his grilled potato and sandwich.
The space is today run with straight-backed poise and a fair bit of sass by two men — Rahul’s son Yajush Malik and Jasmine’s son Mikhail Singh. “It’s been 25 years since we first renovated and the dining room had started to look a little dated. So it was time to give it a new spin. Shutting down a restaurant like ours for two months was a hard call to take. But we had to do it. It started off as a small change and soon spiralled into a complete makeover,” says chef and partner Yajush Mallik.
What’s new?
Interestingly the new look of Gallops has been executed by the same architect Vistasp Kharas, founder of Vistasp Kharas Studio, who designed it 26 years ago. The new dining room is dressed in luxurious new walnut flooring and framed by arched glass windows. Afterall the best part of dining at Gallops is the view — horses galloping on the lush green lawns. The lighting, aided by candlelight, casts a flattering glow reminiscent of a lingering sunset. Houseplants loiter on in pots while the ceiling heaves with meticulously restored wooden trusses.
Walls decked with equestrian memorabilia | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The restaurant’s centrepiece is the new bar featuring a captivating paper installation by the renowned Dutch artist Peter Gentenaar. A historic Barnard’s clock from the 1860s, crafted by James Murray & Co., hangs in its original spot, adding a touch of timeless elegance. The walls are adorned with an eclectic collection of equestrian-themed memorabilia, including original drawings of the racecourse from the private collection of Ar. Minocher Mistri of Ditchburn, Mistri & Bhedwar.
“Apart from the aggressive timeline of 60 days to carry out the complete remodelling and building a new bar, one of the most significant challenges was finding the perfect shade of green for the arches and columns. After testing 32 different paint samples, we finally arrived at what we now proudly call ‘Gallops Green’,” says Kharas.
Menu boost
The refreshed menu has 40 new items while retaining classics that have delighted patrons for decades (think chicken a la kiev, chicken Cecilia, prawn thermidor, veg au gratin). The Goan grilled prawns made for a jolting curtain-raiser to the new offerings: five tiger prawns, ringing with recheado masala and the perfect char. While there is a whisper of sweetness from the toddy vinegar, the fire roasted onions in the masala impart a lovely smokiness.
Those looking for a vegetarian option should zero in on the chargrilled cauliflower which comes on a bed of harissa tahini. It’s so good it sings. Next to come is the chicken liver pate served luxuriously like a caviar with a troupe of gherkins, rum-soaked raisins, hazelnuts and tomato chili chutney. A splash of sherry gives the velvety smooth pate a lovely tinge of pink with a subtle sweetness. It goes especially well with the Picante, a tequila cocktail with the zing of red chillies. Or even the smoked whisky negroni. The bar programme at Gallops is put together by Mikhail.
Daab chingri | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The mains hold multiple temptations such as a deep-flavoured daab chingri with punchy kasundi and tender coconut bits and a sensational pineapple gojju that jolts all the senses with its sweet, tangy and spicy explosion. This skill for getting the greatest impact from just a few ingredients is Yajush’s foremost talent.
Baileys caramel cloud | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The standout? Braised lamb shank so tender it slips from the bone with the gentlest spoon-nudge. The team of Jasmine, Yajush and Mikhail, moves around the room, chatting up regulars and greeting newcomers. That it has regulars — in a city brimming with dining choices — is an achievement. No wonder it has managed to enjoy 38 years in Mumbai.
Gallops is inside Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Via Gate 1, Mahalakshmi. For reservations, call: 022-6960011/8591093010
Meal for two: ₹ 5,000 with alcohol (approx.)
Published - September 04, 2024 07:57 pm IST
