After a year’s hiatus, the space which used to be called The Dining Room in Park Hyatt, has been transformed. There is now a a buffet and à la carte dining space, reimagined as the Park Brasserie , which mainly caters to the guests staying in the hotel. The new eatery, which serves classics that can be seen on every menu, attempts to show how simple, straightforward flavours can stand out.
The space opens up into a brightly lit buffet section and a live cooking station (which serves made-to-order omelettes and dosas for breakfast, and breads for dinner). As we walk further in, there is a dimly-lit veranda area adjacent to their Singaporean restaurant Mr. Ong.
“For breakfast and lunch, Park Brasserie borrows the outdoor seating space from Mr. Ong and the veranda area is extended,” says Pragit Parameswaran, Marketing Communications Manager at Park Hyatt, Chennai. The main event is the elevated dining area with cozy lights and sofa seating.
Lasagna | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
We start with a small mezze platter of beetroot hummus and baba ghanoush served with garlic bread, crackers, and olives. The flavours are familiar and simple enough to be just something you munch on until your food arrives.
The tofu ramen noodle soup with a miso broth and mushrooms falls flat with the lack of seasoning. A scrunch or two of salt and pepper helps. For the salad course, Executive Chef, Balaji Natarajan, serves up his pear and arugula salad. The grilled pear, paired with fresh fennel, candied walnuts and arugula, dressed with balsamic reduction is a symphony of tastes and textures.
The sofiyani paneer tikka, accompanied by the familiar mint chutney, delivers on taste but does not quite stand out. The lasagna offers the expected combination of tomato sauce, vegetables, and cheese, with all the classic flavours in place. However, serving it straight out of the oven would have brought those flavours to life, instead of being served closer to room temperature. It is also available in a lamb ragù option, which is braised for four hours.
Nalli rogan josh | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For the main course, try the kimchi fried rice, which is quite flavourful. Filled with pickled vegetables and mushrooms, it is the high point of the meal and makes for a great late night binge when you are on a staycation. If you are in the mood for some Indian mains, try the paneer hara pyaaz or the nalli rogan josh with a flaky laccha paratha and some onions and lemon on the side. For meat lovers, a juicy Greek lamb burger with tzatziki, a new addition to the menu, has been flying off the shelves according to Chef Balaji.
The most exciting addition to Park Brasserie’s kitchen is the in-house hydroponic garden setup where they grow delicate herbs, exotic vegetables and anything which is difficult to find in the market. “We started growing pandan leaves mostly for our Singaporean restaurant Mr Ong, but we use them in drinks and dishes at Park Brasserie too. It grows in abundance now,” he says, showing around the new garden setup, which is experimental for the time being. Saplings labelled ‘basil’ ‘romaine lettuce’ ‘Thai chilli’ ‘sweet potato’ ‘okra’ ‘radish’ and more are planted all over the garden and the climate controlled setup gets harvested every week. “The harvest inspires us to keep cooking and experimenting with new flavour combinations,” he says.
Interiors | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The meal ends with a sweet vanilla bean panacotta which is served with a wild berry compote. The sweet and sour combination is another classic which rounds up the meal made of simple straightforward flavours, perfect for anyone who wants to play safe and go with familiar flavours.
Park Brasserie is located in Park Hyatt, near Raj Bhavan, Little Mount. A meal for two costs ₹4,000. For reservations, call 8939871128.
Published - August 28, 2024 04:14 pm IST
