The five great Tamil epics of the Sangam period (3rd to 4th century BC) mention different types of jewellery of Tamil Nadu. It is indeed a pleasant surprise that most of the ornaments that have been mentioned in the ancient epics are still in existence today. Obviously, the women of Tamil Nadu have had a lasting love affair with their jewellery and therefore managed to preserve most of the styles from the Sangam era.
An important reason for the style and design still flourishing could be thanks to Bharathanatyam where dancers have adorned themselves with traditional pieces of jewellery for centuries. Also, many ornaments have been handed down generations in families that still treasure them.
Chettinadu is particularly famous for its jewellery, especially the adigai that is worn close to the neck accentuating it. It is usually made of gold and red rubies (kempu). Another adigai is the single stone diamond one. An adigai worn with a Kancheevaram is the ultimate regal fashion statement. If you’re a South Indian woman worth her salt you definitely must own an adigai.
Contemporary fine jewellery from designer houses such as Chopard and Bulgari are inspired by Mother Nature. The maangamalai and the kizhikaasu malai were no different. The mango fruit symbolizes fertility and the maangamalai was found almost in all Tamil families. It is a long necklace made up of small gold mangoes threaded together on a chain with nagasau work on them. Nagasu work is a special form of intricate craftsmanship on gold jewellery found only in this part of the country. The South Indian nagasu craftsmen are sought after by jewellery retailers from all over India for their beautiful handiwork on gold jewellery.
The kizhikaasu malai is another authentic Chettinadu beauty. It is a statement neck-piece made with gold coins and a parrot on top of each of the coins. In the olden days, the women had the goddess Lakshmi embossed on the front of the coins as it was considered auspicious to wear the goddess of wealth. Their family emblem, usually their fort, was embossed on the reverse side of the coins. One can order a kizhikaasu malai with the jewellery craftsmen of Chettinadu and you will find that even today an illustration of a fort is embossed on the reverse.
The odiyanam or the hip belt is a beautiful ornament that flatters the woman wearing it. It is made of gold and again has goddess Lakshmi, parrots, peacocks and serpents carved on it using the nagasu technique. Today, in more modern designs you can find diamonds embellishing the front part of the hip belt called the mogapu. Personally I favour the old fashioned nagasu odiyanam. It is definitely a thing of beauty to treasure and hand down to your daughters.
The jimikis and the magara kuzhai are the ear ornaments. I still cherish my pair of diamond jimikis that my grandmother gifted me when I was but a mere child of 10. The magara kuzhai is a fish shaped earring studded with red rubies and pearls. For the nose there are the mookuthi and besari. They are also usually studded with rubies, pearls or diamonds.
The craftsmen of Chettinadu still hand make these precious pieces. So any imperfections in them make the jewellery even more special since no two pieces can be the exact same!
Shrivyshnavi Annush is a software engineer who pursues her passion for fashion and design. She curates a fashion accessories portal, www.pookaari.com
