The most important aspects that food lovers look for in an eatery are price, ambience and taste, in that order. As the saying goes, old is gold, and most of the places I have discovered have been around for a long time. You don’t necessarily have to spend a fortune and most of the places should be accessible through a simple Google search.
The sambar may have originated far away in Udupi but it is certainly most loved in Chennai. There have been instances of people walking on Purasawalkam High Road being pulled into a hotel because the aroma of sambar was so powerful. Sambar lovers don’t need to be told twice that they have to make that compulsory pilgrimage to Ratna Café in Triplicane; the home of the idli-sambar (or sambar-idli as some puritans call it), and the legacy of the dish is unquestionable. Bonda, vadai or idli with sambar, the hotel doesn’t stop you from experimenting.
Moving on to another place in Triplicane, the flavour and taste of masala paal in a nameless shop is unmatched. The price of half a cup here is still in single digits. This is a small nondescript place at the junction of Bharathi Salai and Big Street. For many eateries, the way to tempt potential customers to indulge in their specialty is to place a large vessel of masala paal in front, but this place sells only that one item! My friend Karthik tells me that it has been doing so for decades and his last stop during his visits to Triplicane has to be at this joint.
There are many things that my foodie friend G.V.S. Mani misses after he relocated to Bangalore. One is the sabha canteen where he would take his troop of foodie friends during the music season, unmindful of the fact that there is actually a concert going on inside.
Tucked away behind the Thandu Mariamman Temple, Gomathi Saiva Unavagam or Gomathi Mess in Mandaiveli also ranks high on the list. Many people have returned home disappointed after having made a long trip from places like Porur because they turned up more than an hour after it opens; such is the local demand for this tiffin place which is not open on weekends. Once you have discovered the place, you will be unmindful of the fact that you have to stand and eat. Their delicious venn pongal, occasional arisi upma and their famed Mysore bonda, ending with a filter coffee, will ensure it. If there’s one thing that Mumbaikars miss when they move away from their city, it’s the authentic taste of vada pav. To make up for this loss, Chennai has matched the Mumbai flavour thanks to Mehta Brothers on Mint Street. For less than Rs. 20, it is a treat that you don’t want to miss. No description can do it justice; it is a taste that has to be experienced.
The Earl of Sandwich might have created the now-familiar snack for a specific purpose, but even his invention has not been spared. There are places in Chennai which have adapted the sandwich for different tastes. One such innovation is the murukku sandwich: bread is replaced by tiny murukkus with vegetables, cheese and mint chutney and topped with sev . Introduced at Links, located opposite Dharmaprakash Hotel in Purasawalkam, it is very popular among youngsters. The delicious chaat is offset by lacklustre service, but make sure to drop in.
Any food visit to Mylapore is considered incomplete without an obligatory visit to the Jannal Kadai located near the Kapali Temple. Famed for their bajjis and unique getti chutney, the jannal (window) serves as the counter. The family that runs this shop remains committed to opening the window at 5:30 p.m. every day (excluding Sundays) and they have done it for decades.
Organising a food walk is not an easy affair: finding places that offer a variety of cuisines, factoring in hygiene, pricing, access to the location, are critical. But if you can compromise on the ambience, you are in for a culinary treat in the small bylanes of Chennai.
Sridhar will host all the four food walks. For details, check out themadrasday.in or send an email to sridharve@gmail.com
